Question for the well endowed lady...

[pevansthomas]

I apologise if this has been brought up before, I am starting the probably quite long process of constructing a regency wardrobe for myself. I was wondering what the best pattern would be for underthings that would support my fuller bosom...

[Mme de Beaufort]

Hello. I would gladly provide that reply, and that would be a pattern for a full-corset. Both Cosmo and I agree that the most support is provided by a busked full corset when you are a D and up. Here is an overview of the types of support stays there are, and what works best for what body type:

oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/06/overview-of-regency-stayscorsets.html

I personally, have tried all three basic styles of stays... from the S&S short stays (great pattern, but for someone who is a DDD, it only acts to pan out in front of me and the boning angles into my chest). The transitional is okay, but as long as you add a busk in the front--but if you have a belly, it can push up the busk and platter you out again. Cosmo continually told me as I experimented that I should do the full-sized corset with a busk and she was right. The busk keeps the cups propped, and separates the girls, and you can adjust the gusset size to accomodate your cup size.

[luminita]

I agree. Transitional or full stays work best for people above a small C. I wear a 32DD. But I have a small ribcage. I'm making myself some full length stays.

[amandamoose]

Is it possible to easily make these stays without a dress form? I hope to get one soon which I think I've been saying for ages now but I do so hope to get one soon...oh and Also should I wait to make them till I'm done nursing? As my boobs are quite a lovely size now but will somewhat deflate when I'm done...lol Or should I go ahead and make some cause it'll be easy to adjust for a smaller fit once I'm done?

[Mme de Beaufort]

I've never made stays with a dress form. Unless it's a special kind of dress form you can modify to create a regency silhouette... because your breasts need to be set quite higher than their more 'natural' state that is depicted on a dress-form. Your regency stays will not sit on the dress form correctly. I just made a muslin first, tried them on as best I could, and then ploughed forward and just sewed my things up.

As for your changing cup size, installing a drawstring along your cups in the front could easily remedy any of that by simply drawing the cups in if they get too loose.

[amandamoose]

Wow that's brilliant!!! I hadn't even though of that LOL I just though of the smush factor. Ok then I'll be making stays soon hopefully

[bvssmith]

I'm making a plus size regency dress for a customer on a budget. Would she still get a period correct look using a bra with a lift instead of a corset?

[dawnluckham]

Short answer: NOPE!

Long answer: The proper Regency era silhouette is "columnar":

Meaning - smooth elegant and high busted. There is NO way a modern bra is going to give that "correct" shape.

For a full figured lady, she needs something to smooth the whole body (not reduce the waist, by the way - smoothing is what's wanted here) and lift the bust.

The height of the Regency bust line is very high and a full busted – full figured gal will not get that with a modern “push-up” bra designed for someone wearing a modern size 18 or larger.

The least is a half stays and depending upon the gown (formal gown or everyday work type gown) She needs half stays and a petticoat to support and smooth her skirts. If it’s a formal or dressier gown, she would be more comfortable and look much more “fashionably attractive” in long stays (like the Mantua Maker pattern or the pattern in Jean Hunnisett’s “Period Costume for Stage and Screen”.) She’ll also find the long stays are extremely comfortable to wear.

Proper period undergarments under a gown: Chemise, Stays, Petticoat and then gown.

[bvssmith]

Thank you for your input... it really helps:)

[Mme de Beaufort]

Not to make too fine a point here, but I'd like to provide you with the evidence you need to see that going without proper underpinnings when you are well-endowed can be treacherous and embarrassing.

Here is a photo of me at this year's Pittock Mansion picnic. In some mental breakdown that morning, I decided I wanted to be comfortable to sit on the ground and went without a set of stays. I figured the bib front would help with th support, which it did within its limitations. But I spent the better part of that day using my lace lapetts to cover the spillage that was occuring on the sides of my bib. It was tragic. And humiliating, and looking at this photo, I wonder what the heck was I thinking???

Case and point... I, on the left, am a harsh contrast to Stephanie II on the right, who is comfortably settled in her transitionals and happily going about her day--unlike me, who spent the entire day freaking out about my girls.

However, if this humiliating moment can serve any purpose, perhaps it will scare you into making wise underpinning choices, and steer away from looking like a saggy tent. ::facepalm::

So please... ladies. Wear your corsets!

Steph

Click with care:
farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4946970101_944a7ce4e4_b.jpg