1810 Gown, page 158 The Cut of Woman's Clothes

[Izodiea]

Last Thursday I had my final fitting/dress try on!!!
behold the almost completeness: izodiea.livejournal.com/21749.html#cutid1
I have mostly minor things now-finish sewing in the waistband lining, sew the last few bits of the basted ruffle (That is why it is a little wonky) and sew the marked hem. I will have time to do this once school/finals are over for me in a Week 1/2!

Pattern- Draped and drafted by me based on the 1810 Gown, page 158 of The Cut of Woman's Clothes: izodiea.livejournal.com/19178.html I did not end up using the skirt that I draped, however, but busted out my altered copy of the simplicity "Ever After" dress. This worked surprisingly well with some modifications.

My second attempt at a mock-up can be seen here: izodiea.livejournal.com/20335.html My Foam mannequin (even with the stays on) has a much lower bust than me, so quite a few simple shoulder modifications were made.

The first try on (Dress basted): izodiea.livejournal.com/20569.html

I am extremely excited with how this dress has turned out, and have plans to wear it in the near future as the "white Rabbit" to an Alice in Wonderland themed Tea.

Everything visible from the outside was hand stitched. All of the ruffled edges are roll-hemmed, as well as the front opening and the eyelets for the closure (Which I have not finished yet)

Worn over these undergarments:
Stays: izodiea.livejournal.com/19544.html
Petticoat: izodiea.livejournal.com/21162.html

I hope to start making really soon A Silly Hat Like so: www.lynnmcmasters.com/
(Technically 1830's but I really want it to be silly of epic proportions)

and a matching open robe: regencyreproductions.blogspot.com/2008/04/regency-half-robe.html I Don't want to hide any of the fluffiness of the sleeves and neck ruffles.

I have Some lovely gray/navy silk woven with black 1" bees. I think it will be just enough to make a hat and a 3/4 length open robe.


Thank you for taking the time to view my first Regency project, You all are such a great inspiration and I am grateful for this community! -Izodiea

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[Anna]

Very cute! I remember your post on Corsetmakers.

[dawnluckham]

Your work is VERY beautiful!

[lastbloom]

I love your gown! The sleeves are so pretty! (Gosh, not to mention your gorgeous underthings!)

[Izodiea]

Thank you The sleeves were definately one of the things that made me want to make this dress to begin with, and the stays were a labor of love! I learned all about cording from the Corsetmakers community on Livejournal.

In the original illustrastration (In cut of women's clothes) I found it a little tricky to tell what was happending at the sleeve caps. In some places it looked ruffled, but at others it looked knife-pleated. I endup going with ruffled because it seemed to fit the soft nature of my fabric better.
Later (during a 19th century rushing class with Candice Kling) I learned a technique that explained it. Apparently it was common to box-pleat fabric, then gather it for even controlled ruffles with a full scrolled edge. I assume you could do the same thing with knife-pleates and gathering=sleeve caps in illustration!

I fully- finished my dress a little while ago, and wore it to the afore mentioned Mad-Hatter Tea Party. My Photos from the Event: www.flickr.com/photos/48512843@N04/sets/72157624868919063/

I also started making a matching Straw bonnet based on the tutorial Steph did: izodiea.livejournal.com/22615.html and izodiea.livejournal.com/23944.html

I am going to be at the congress of Vienna Ball this Sat. Come and say Hi if you see me. You know what I will be wearing, minus the bunny ears

[dawnluckham]

What a wonderful looking tea party! You all look terrific! Your gown turned out beautifully!

[artemisiajolie]

I really love your dress! Is that an actual wrap with the crossover bodice? I'm thinking of doing that with the Ravenrook bodice pattern... modifying the skirt of course. And the ruffles are a beautiful addition!

[Izodiea]

Oct 8, 2010 0:37:59 GMT -5 artemisiajolie said:

I really love your dress! Is that an actual wrap with the crossover bodice?!

Yes, it is an actual wrap/cross over bodice. This is the best picture I have (Before I put the trim on) The dress overlaps for about 8inches, 4 on each side of center front.
I'm not familiar with that pattern (I made mine myself) but I find the style to be very easy to wear, and I image friendly to weight fluctuations.

Thank you

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[Izodiea]

For Reference: This is how the dress Appears in The Cut of Woman's Clothes, page 158.

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[artemisiajolie]

I'm quite excited now to try it! Thanks for the tip about the corsetmakers livejournal; I've been curious about trying a corded stay. Right now I use Dawn's wrap stay, which I love, but would like a second, longer one as well

[Izodiea]

It took me longer than I expected because I couldn't make my mind up about trim, but my bonnet is now officially complete! Just in time too, next weekend I am going to be in a Regency Fashion show for a Jane Austen Reading program at the Sacramento Library. Now since my bonnet is finished I can make the few small tweaks on my dress I have been wanting to do with out worrying about time.

To see a lot of pictures (Including ones of me wearing the bonnet) please see my live journal post Here: izodiea.livejournal.com/25441.html

The first style of trim I attempted involved a large ribbon rosette and berries, after about and hour futzing around with it I decided I didn't really like it, and took it off the next morning. At some point (I think while I was sleeping if that is possible) it occurred to me that the discarded bias ties I had made would work as a decorative band. I ran with it, adding smaller bows made from Moire ribbon, paper flowers and stamens. I like it much better like this, it is much simpler, but still highly decorative and "soft" like the dress. The berries, although very cute, were a little distracting.

I think the Bias band will also help to distract from the hair pin, which I bought this one: www.etsy.com/transaction/35799018
I am currently eagerly awaiting its arrival in the mail.

I really need to find a better method up putting up my hair, if I just put in in a lump it's a little obvious. Perhaps I should have made the bag a little bigger? Can anyone recommend a good website for hair tutorials? (One for people with long hair a major plus!) Thanks!

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[lastbloom]

I'm so excited that you'll be coming to the lecture next Sunday! I'll be there, and our "group" (just getting off the ground) is going for coffee afterward. I'm looking forward to meeting you in person and seeing your lovely dress

regencysocietysacramento.blogspot.com/

[lastbloom]

Here's a really lovely hairstyle tutorial. I think it is perfect for long hair, and it looks easy-peasy. I've seen many similar styles in Wilcox's "Mode in Hats and Headdresses" and Corson's "Fashions in Hair" -- it's almost a shame to cover it with a bonnet!

olde-fashioned.livejournal.com/21179.html

[Izodiea]

That tutorial is perfect! Thank you

I am getting really excited for next Sunday, both the lecture and meeting everyone who can make it. Hopefully I will be able to make it for coffee afterward- ride situation permitting.

[Mme de Beaufort]

Hair Tutorials:

oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/02/regency-ladies-tresses.html

[Izodiea]

Today I finished up the last few sections on my corset busk, It occurs to me now it is absolute insanity to decorate something that gets hidden in a garment, then under another garment; so it will never ever ever be seen in polite society.
Oh well

I Started by commissioning a friend (Who is a professional Illustrator) to make me some design sketches on tracing paper. Out of the three she made I picked this rose pattern and made a copy. I transferred the pattern onto the wooden busk by poking small holes with an awl, then connecting them with pencil. After that it was a matter of finding well ventilated areas where I could sit and slowly wood-burn the pattern in with a tool like this: www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003029/2545/Woodburning-Pen.aspx . Occasionally I had to re-draw on the pattern because it would smudge. I also had to lightly sand off bits of the varnish that came on the busk once I was done.

I am very satisfied with the finished result, but slightly disappointed I could not get as find of a line with the tool as I have seen on some surviving busks.

Detail shots of the finished buck can be seen in My liveJournal Post Here: izodiea.livejournal.com/33866.html

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[autumnlight]

Wow, your gown is absolutely beautiful!