tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Cloak
Aug 11, 2008 20:52:27 GMT -5
Post by tess on Aug 11, 2008 20:52:27 GMT -5
I want to make something warm to take to Mississinewa in October, so I'm thinking a cloak would be quick.
I saw a short cloak by Kannik's Korner which it is dated 1750-1800.
I think this would work, but does anyone have a suggestion for a cloak pattern appropriate for 1812 reenactments?
(Dawn, I saw a mention in another thread about a double lined cloak you had--what did you use and were you happy with it?)
Thanks! Tess
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Miss Credit
Clergy
"To be fond of dancing was a certain step towards falling in love"
Posts: 118
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Cloak
Aug 11, 2008 21:21:09 GMT -5
Post by Miss Credit on Aug 11, 2008 21:21:09 GMT -5
I have a cloak that my mother made thats works wonderfully for this period. I dont know off the top of my head what the pattern was but I will ask her tomorrow when I see her. I think she used a commercial pattern like out of Simplicity and just modified it a bit.
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Cloak
Aug 12, 2008 9:39:59 GMT -5
Post by dawnluckham on Aug 12, 2008 9:39:59 GMT -5
Tess, that cloak was made early, early, early in my re-enacting wardrobe and it’s never been replaced. It’s one of those things that I’m not sure would stand up under scrutiny as I just needed a warm cloak and I was putting together so many other garments at the same time and I didn’t do the research. Having said that: I still wear it because it’s warm and there is a lot of fabric in there and I still don’t really have the time to replace it. It’s not horrible – It’s a half circle cloak with a hood. It’s (in theory though I never switch it) reversible as I made two cloaks and just sewed them together all the way around – so the lining is more than likely not period correct – but double layers of wool makes for a very warm garment. I copied the button closure from “Ann’s” cloak in the Amanda Root version of “Persuasion”. The hood works – but these days I’d make it differently, with the pleated half-starburst in the back. The waist length cape is perfectly acceptable and worth considering. I do like my full-length cloak though for rain and mud protection, and covering up when I’m making a nighttime run to the washroom, and for use as a blanket on those cold nights. Those who like the short capes say they get better movement for working. So if you cook over a fire or need to haul water, the short cape may suit your work better. If you’re looking for cloak patterns and ideas, see if you can get a copy of Jean Hunnisett’s “Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Outer Garments, Book 1: Cloaks, Capes Stoles and Wadded Mantles”. If I were to make myself a new cloak, I’d be choosing a pattern from this book. This book is full of black and white photos of extent garments with lots of additional line drawings and wonderful graphed patterns taken from these original garments. It is “aimed” at those making for theatre so there are some theatre tricks discussed for keeping these garments in position on a performer, but the historical research included in these “Period Costume for Stage and Screen” books (there are 5 of them) is really worth looking into. The earliest cloak in the book is a lovely “camelet (type of fabric) cloak and hood” from the Worthington Museum, dated 1760. This cloak would work beautifully in 1812, though I think the hood design (it’s a separate hood) might need some modification. The next one worth considering is a red cloak from the late 18th c. from the Museum of London. This is a half circle with a wide collar that comes over the shoulders and an attached hood. Red cloaks were VERY popular during the late 18th c. and early 19th c. in both England and here in North America. There is a French Provincial cloak made of floral chintz dated 1780-90 and a “Scarlet Wedding Cloak, Gallery of Costume, Platt hall in Manchester, dated c.1800”. The hood and collar are lined in quilted silk. More graphed patterns: Linda Baumgarten’s “Costume Close-Up” has two (I think) cloak patterns in it. Both are perfect for 1812. And Sharon Ann Burnston’s “Fitting and Proper” has a cloak pattern in it dated 1770-1800. This is a silk cloak that is shaped somewhat like Marianne’s cloak in the Emma Thompson “Sense and Sensibility”, with the shorter back and the long pointed front. The Kannik’s Korner cloak pattern is good. Documentation and research is always excellent with this pattern company and cloaks are one of those things that don't change in fashion quickly. It's not a big deal that she only dates it to 1800: www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen.htmRocking Horse Farms has a cloak pattern here (though I’m less sure of the documentation for this one). It *looks* right: rockinghorse-farm.com/?mainURL=/store/category/8n21/Regency.htmlFolkwear offers the Kinsale Cloak pattern, and you’ll see these at re-enactments. This pattern has a sort of neat hood design. When it’s worn as a hood it’s ruffled around the face, but when the hood is down it becomes a cape over the shoulders. In spite of that clever design, I’m unsure how documented it is for early 19th c. and if it’s correct for the common impression (maybe if your persona is from Ireland?). I actually think it’s a later 19th c. design. I’ve also heard that it’s very heavy to wear on the shoulders. Instead of being cut on a circle, it’s a length of fabric gathered into the neckline. www.folkwear.com/207.html
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Cloak
Aug 12, 2008 10:21:03 GMT -5
Post by Val on Aug 12, 2008 10:21:03 GMT -5
Folkwear offers the Kinsale Cloak pattern, and you’ll see these at re-enactments. Some people reviewed this on The Great Pattern Review and said there was too much fabric to gather into the hood unless you used a thin fabric, like cotton.
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Cloak
Aug 12, 2008 12:09:55 GMT -5
Post by lauren on Aug 12, 2008 12:09:55 GMT -5
I would LOVE to make a cloak. That's certainly in the mental project bank. :-)
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Cloak
Aug 12, 2008 15:27:19 GMT -5
Post by dawnluckham on Aug 12, 2008 15:27:19 GMT -5
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Cloak
Aug 12, 2008 17:41:25 GMT -5
Post by tess on Aug 12, 2008 17:41:25 GMT -5
Dawn, as ususual you are a WEALTH of information! Thanks for the pics of the extent garments. I love the shape of the black one from the Manchester collection. I'll be looking up the pattern in "Period Costumes for Stage and Screen".
I would prefer to use a regular pattern, only because I have no idea how to take a graphed pattern and size it correctly! (BTW, does anyone know a link to a tutorial on this??)
I'm going to look at all the pattern books you mentioned as well and see if it feels "do-able" to try that.
You guys are great!!
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Cloak
Oct 15, 2010 2:18:07 GMT -5
Post by fashiondisorder on Oct 15, 2010 2:18:07 GMT -5
That's an excelent idea to make a cloak! I will try to draw a pattern for myself, they aren't proffesional but mabey it will work somehow, hihi
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Cloak
Oct 15, 2010 8:17:08 GMT -5
Post by esther on Oct 15, 2010 8:17:08 GMT -5
It's my understanding that kinsdale cloaks are not approriate for the time period. A much better bet for authenticity is the Kannik's Corner short cloak pattern. The design of the cloak didn't change much as you go into the early 19th century.
I have a cloak that I made from this pattern and it is easy-peasey to put together, even for someone with minimal sewing knowledge like myself. I made the cloak in less than a week of on and off hand sewing in the evenings while I watched tv. I went at a leisurely pace, as I did other things. Plus I went slowly to make sure all of my hand stitches were small and neat. If you seriously sat down and focused on the project you could probably get it done in a much shorter amount of time.
If you make the cloak, get a good, tightly woven wool. If the wool is tightly woven and fulled, you won't have to hem the edges. Also, if you get a good 100% wool fabric, the cloak will be very waterproof. I've worn mine in downpours and the water beads up and rolls off it, keeping you dry underneath. I used a coat weight wool that purchased from Burnley and Trowbridge and I am very happy with it.
Personally, I prefer the shorter length of the cloak because I'm often cooking and working. I have never been cold in the shorter length and it still makes an excellent rain coat in the shorter length. I don't get cold like a lot of women do, so the short length suits me fine. In fact, a longer length cloak tends to make me too warm. I've worn mine in the dead of winter in the snow with wool stockings and a wool petticoat and I'm fine. Even if you prefer a longer length, the pattern is very simple and would be easier to make into a longer length.
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