Kyoto Costume Institute "Brasierre"

[dawnluckham]

Another stays option: Betsy Bashore has made a copy of the Kyoto stays and has posted her pattern on line.

Here is the original Kyoto stays: www.kci.or.jp/archives/da_popup/index_e.html
Go to 1800-10 and they are in the bottom row, third picture reading left to right. They’re shown flat. Here is another image: www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/e19c-bra.jpg

Here is Betsy’s pattern: www.19thus.com/Brasierre.html Her pattern fits about a 36-38 B but she gives options for C and D cups.

I used her pattern and these are the results. I was a 34 DD when I made these for myself, and I needed to shorten the straps in order to be able to pull it snug enough. The D suggested cutting line didn’t need to be modified further to fit me. I *never* use wimpy fabric store boning, but for these, I made the big decision that I wanted it light and flexible so I used the Ridgeline.

Pictures:





The back sort of looks like the “corset elastique” shown in this picture.
(Scroll down 5. It’s the back shown dated 1804).
www.songsmyth.com/underthings.html

Notice in my photos that there’s a little buckling of fabric at the strap near the underarm area. If I were going to wear these regularly, I think I’d pinch that out as a dart and rebind the area – and next time making the pattern, I’d put more curve in the strap to eliminate that.

These were easy to make once the pattern was drafted up. Two layers of fabric basted together at the bottom. Boning channels sewn – boning put in channels and all edges were bias bound and eyelets sewn. Linen tape added.

[Mme de Beaufort]

OOooooooh, those are cool. Very cool. I don't know if they can handle DDDs, but still very cool.

[dawnluckham]

They would work fine for your DDD size. Proportionally (remember I'm only a 34) I'm very busty. The one thing I will say about these, and it's why I only use them for demonstration and don't wear them regualarly, I find these "feel" like a modern bra. And let me tell you, I'm not a big fan of modern bra's. They're UNCOMFORTABLE. I've found that stays and corsets can be more comfortable than most of our modern support garments. If you're comfortable in a modern bra, then you probably won't have any trouble with these.

The other thing about these is we're not used to the silhouette. I mentioned on another thread that this was a period of transition in women's support garments. This gives the period silhouette with the high bust line, but it ends up looking a lot like you've put the "girls" on a shelf. It completely stops "bounce" though!

[Mme de Beaufort]

The "shelf" thing only really happens when I sit down. When that happens, my corset/stay moves up, and not only pushes the girls up under my chin, but shelfs them a lot. I'm not tiny, so I made a full-length corset from the S&S pattern, I'm wondering if I should have gone mid-length instead.

Here's a perfect example of my being 'shelfed' by my corset (and what also annoys me is how the strap of my stay/corset always keeps coming out on my neckline. I'm the rotund one in red with the very period glasses ::smirk::.



This is Aug 24, 2007 ~ Regency Party at Ainsworth House. Like the ball, I had no time to really take care with my appearance. I just threw on costume without making those necessary adjustments; but even so, I need to somehow come up with a corset/stay that doesn't do that. I want my girls squished in place, and for them to stay there whether I stand or sit. I would also like my straps to be very tight against my shoulder and for them to stay in place. That dress is my very first regency dress from the Simplicity version of the S&S pattern.

[dawnluckham]

I think you look really lovely! I love the red! And your hair is adorable.

Okay, the long corset will push up like a shelf when the busk is too long. You sit down and the busk pushes against your lap/pubic bone.

Try shortening the busk. You should be able to sit on a flat chair or stool and the busk needs to below your belly button but above your pubic bone. Hope it's an easy fix for you!

[Mme de Beaufort]

Thanks! I chose a 'historic' cotton print (a moire print) in 'Turkey Red". My hair is naturally curly, but the nice clean curls tend to frizz up if I don't damp it down during the day. I spent the early afternoon preparing the space, running about, preparing food, and then hopped into my costume when the first people arrived. I was exhausted. I ended up putting my crocs on by the end of the night my feet hurt so badly.

The ball was the same thing, my hair, in the morning was perfect, but it was frizzy by the time ball-time came 'round, and because i had to be at the venue, I had no time to fuss. It was not at all what I hoped it would be.

Anyway, I digress...

I used the S&S pattern as a base, so It's actually two strips of steel boning there. I'd have to cut through them; they're sewn in place. I think I may have to make a new stay or corset. I like the images you (I think it was you) posted of your modified stay with the little bustle, I think that would be a good length..

[cosmoblue]

This is a very interesting garment. It looks much different on a person than it does on the mannequin.

[dawnluckham]

I still think it would be an easy fix. I would pick out the binding at the bottom of the stays (just enough to get into the boning channels) and use bolt cutters to cut the boning to a shorter length. Either file the bones round if you've used spring steel, or look to other methods of making the bone rounded (clip roundish and wrap with electrical tape?). If you've used spiral steel boning, you just need to cut it properly to achieve a round end. I buy all my boning in bulk and cut lengths as needed. It's not hard - you just need the right cutting tool. I use aluminium caps to finish the ends.

If you think you’re going for a whole new thing, look into the Mantua Maker pattern, or consider drafting up the Period Costume for Stage and Screen pattern. Optionally, Past Patterns makes these two patterns that could be adapted.

www.pastpatterns.com/705.html

or better still,

www.pastpatterns.com/001.html

I’d go for #001 if I were going to work with this pattern company. You’ll need to shorten the length of the gusset to get the right silhouette. Shorten the gusset AND the slash line in the centre front pattern piece.

[Mrs. Goblin]

I'm absolutely making a set of these. I traced out a pattern from these directions on opened-up-paper-bag, altered to fit to the best of my eyeballing and washed the last of our good, soft canvas to remove the sizing and shrink it. I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to cut into the fabric, but it's all set to go.

[dawnluckham]

Good luck with them Christy. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on them when you have them made up.

One thing – look at the back photo I posted and notice that I’ve got the ties pulled through the eyelets almost as tight as they can go. That’s not ideal. Make sure you’ve given yourself “tightening room” with the straps that wrap around the midriff (from the main body of the stays) short enough that the ties can be tightened properly, with “flex room”.

[Mrs. Goblin]

Tightening room is a good idea. I had to adjust them slightly for my build, but since the pattern online is for a 38" ribcage, and I'm a 44", I did add a little to the "waistband" strip. But the paper pattern still shows I've got plenty of room.

This seems like a good design for someone who needs containment at the sides of the breasts, which is always my problem. Containment at the sides and a bit of lift is just what I need. I've cut them to just clear my nipple at the top edge. We'll see how that works.

Victorian corsets are the least comfortable for me because my breasts tend to hang out towards the armpit. Georgian corsets are a fabulous look for me, though, because they squish me comfortably in all the right places. Add some panniers, and I more than vaguely resemble a ship in full sail, figurehead and all.

[nonsuch]

Oh no! It seems the patterns have been taken down! I tried to make the long stays from her pattern though I think it may have been missing a few pieces. She has the gusset pieces, but there are not marks for where to put them - when I looked closer at the original - some squinted was required - it seemed that the under/coutil layer was less structured with only a couple pieces and the gussets. And the pattern provided was only for the outer - lightweight layer!
Heres a pic of what it looked like made up for what its worth -
i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/hawkeyeyuki/muslin/muslincorset004.jpg