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Post by sirjames on Oct 16, 2007 13:27:40 GMT -5
I've had a look at some of the patterns and many look inaccurate to me. Are any actually based on original items of clothing? If seeking patterns of clothing of any accuracy, I would refer to: Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion Vol. 1 Jean Hunniset: Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress: 1800-1909 Norah Waugh: The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930/Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbninquiry.asp?r=1&ean=9780878300259At least these patterns are based on orginal clothing! ;D
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Oct 16, 2007 14:03:50 GMT -5
That's a good question. The Mode Bagatelle is supposed to be accurate, however I've heard that S&S patterns are not, and seeing the length of the back, it makes me wonder. Thanks for the suggestions... I'll have to find links and post them.
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Post by cosmoblue on Oct 17, 2007 17:31:56 GMT -5
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Oct 17, 2007 17:32:56 GMT -5
Actually, that site can be counted on for accuracy, she's a member of the costume college, owns a number of antique pieces, and she does most of her sewing by hand. She is something else.
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Post by cosmoblue on Oct 19, 2007 12:08:29 GMT -5
I found a review on some of the patterns in Patterns of Fashion here: www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/PatternsFashion.htm c.1798-1805 Drop-Front Gown from Salisbury Museum- Patterns of Fashion 1 Katherine Caron-Greig - Highly RecommendedI had been trying to figure out exactly how a drop-front gown worked so when I found the perfect embroidered linen-cotton blend I knew I had to try one. I found the Janet Arnold pattern quite easy to work with. Of course, it helped the the original was almost exactly my size! I scaled up the pattern by hand, which was much easier than I thought it would be. The construction details in the book are quite helpful, though I wish there were a few more, such as exactly how the lining and outer fabric are attached. I wanted to make a long sleeved dress, so I used the under-sleeve pattern which I extended with the Sense and Sensibility long sleeve pattern. The pleating instructions for the skirt are very clear, and result in two invisible side plackets. I didn't run into any problems making this dress; overall a much better experience than the average pattern. Pictured on left. Teresa Shobe - RecommendedThe biggest challenge with this dress was scaling it up and modifying the original pattern to fit me. After the fit was right, the dress itself went together in no time. I modified the sleeve to remove the puffed upper sleeve and extend the long false sleeve all the way up to the armscye. I also skimped a bit on the skirt width, but this didn't end up presenting a problem at all as there is already plenty of fullness at the back of the skirt. Combined with the pattern markings and the illustrations, the construction notes are sufficient to get the dress put together; however, I did have a couple creative problem solving moments. I never could figure out how exactly to attach the front skirt and the drop-front to the waistband; I ended up just sandwiching the skirt piece into the folded over waistband and then hand stitching the bottom edge of the drop-front in place. I also didn't know how to attach the bodice lining, so I just made up two bodices (one of fashion fabric and the other of muslin), sewed them together and turned them through the armscyes. Pictured on right. I found a review for Period Costume for Stage and Screen here: www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/PeriodCostume.htm c.1800-1825 - Three-Piece Sleeve - Pattern Sheet 3, View F - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909Kendra Van Cleeve - RecommendedThis makes a gorgeous 1820's sleeve, but it's a bit tricky to put together. If you want to pipe the edge, be prepared to hand sew it. The only issue I had was that I used a sheer fabric and so needed to draft my own under-sleeve pattern. c.1800-1825 - Corset - Pattern Sheet 6, View A - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909Loren Dearborn - RecommendedThis corset works very well in giving the "lift and separate" look you see so often in Regency paintings. It was a bit difficult and time consuming to make, especially the gussets, but not really any more so than other corsets. c.1800-1825 - Corset Bodice - Pattern Sheet 6, View B - Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909Kendra Van Cleave - RecommendedI blew up the pattern pieces on a photocopier until it looked close to my size and worked from there. I had a difficult time getting the gussets in the right shape, and getting the front to lie flat against my chest between my breasts. I eventually left out the gussets to make more of an 18th century shape.
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Post by dawnluckham on Dec 13, 2007 17:48:05 GMT -5
Accuracy *depends* on what you’re looking for.
I’m new (just today!) to this board, but from my scouting of what’s here to offer, it appears that the timeline covers roughly from 1799 to 1825. (Someone feel free to correct me if I’ve got it wrong.) Technically, the “Regency” period in England was from 1811 to 1820 when George III was still King but was too ill to rule. His son, George IV ruled as Regent until his father’s death in 1820. At that time, he became King George IV. Wikipedia suggests the term “Regency” is often used loosely to describe the years 1795-1837. That’s a little broader than I usually comfortable with, but okay.
The La Mode Bagatelle pattern is accurate if you are looking for late 18-teens into the 1820’s. They have the full sleeve (much too full for the earlier periods, in my opinion) and instructions on how to do a padded “rouleau” hem decoration, which is a late teens treatment.
The Sense and Sensibility patterns have unfortunately been trashed unfairly by some of the 1812 re-enactor groups. Again, accuracy *depends* on what you are looking for. The patternmaker, Jennie Chancey has done her homework. The original Sense and Sensibility pattern was designed to look like a dress in a photo. That dress is dated 1820-30. So, if you were looking for an 1812 dress the original pattern is probably not appropriate. One of the main arguments against the original pattern that I have heard is that the skirt is shaped in the upper body. If you look at the original dress, it does indeed have that shape. The stays pattern was developed after studying (backroom museum study) 3 different sets of stays. I believe features from all three extent garments are included in her pattern. The new “Elegant Lady’s Closet” pattern is accurate and true to the earlier periods. It’s an excellent pattern for 1812 and earlier. It looks like extent garments I have studied myself. The spencer-pelisse pattern has an 1820’s “feel” to me. It’s got a wider back and those full sleeves. It also offers a double-breasted option, which I can’t say I’ve ever seen in extent garments. Period garments often have the “look” of a military double breasted style, but they frequently close at centre with buttons decoratively suggesting a double breast. (Janet Arnold has a spencer with a habit, and I can’t recall how that one works.)
Past Patterns Lewis and Clarke gown is period correct in every way for the dates Saundra Ros Altman suggests. This is a round gown, tying closed at the front.
Period Impressions makes two Regency patterns. I have worked with the Bibb Front gown pattern and love it. It’s an accurate apron front, high stomacher, drop front (all these terms describe the same style dress closure) dress pattern.
The Rocking Horse Farms patterns I have are mostly good, but I can’t say I have them all. There are not glaring problems with accuracy, but I don’t know if any of them were developed from original garments.
The Folkwear Empire dress pattern incredibly close to many original ball gowns I’ve studied c. 1800-1815. That’s the short list of “is it accurate?”
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maudelynn
Clergy
~ I may not always make good sense but I ALWAYS make good tea!~
Posts: 193
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Post by maudelynn on Feb 19, 2008 13:47:54 GMT -5
I have found the Lewis and Clark bib front extremely accurate as well as the Folkwear and La Mode Bagatelle. I have heard grand things about Fig Leaf and Reconstructing History as well as Wingeo!
Both Rocking Horse and Sense and Sensibility are lovely dress making patterns but, in my opinion, are not accurate. They give the general look of the period in an easy form.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Feb 19, 2008 13:54:43 GMT -5
Lewis & Clark bib-front? Folkwear? ::starts googling:: I haven't heard of Fig-leaf.
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maudelynn
Clergy
~ I may not always make good sense but I ALWAYS make good tea!~
Posts: 193
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Post by maudelynn on Feb 19, 2008 14:08:01 GMT -5
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Feb 19, 2008 14:10:44 GMT -5
I've seen the Lewis & Clark one before... I love the seams on the back, they're lovely.
I've never seen fig-leaf before. That's a new source of patterns for me...
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maudelynn
Clergy
~ I may not always make good sense but I ALWAYS make good tea!~
Posts: 193
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Post by maudelynn on Feb 19, 2008 14:15:41 GMT -5
I've seen the Lewis & Clark one before... I love the seams on the back, they're lovely. I've never seen fig-leaf before. That's a new source of patterns for me... The L & C is a lovely pattern. The back is a bit tricky but so worth the effort! I am very excited about the Fig Leaf, it looks as though it will give ample room to decorate and modify for different events and tastes! I am planning on using this one, as well as a the L & C one for dresses I will wear to the JA fest in Bath this fall!
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 20, 2008 22:51:51 GMT -5
Dan'a --- Lewis and Clark BIB Front??? I have Past Patterns Lewis and Clark gown pattern and I’ve made it several times, but this is a ROUNDgown pattern. Is there another pattern that I don’t know about? (I’m all ears in eager anticipation!) Steph, the back on the Past Patterns gown is WONDERFUL! It looks SO great! The Folkwear Empire Dress pattern is one of the most accurate patterns I’ve found. It matches closely several (more than several) extent dresses that I’ve looked at. And this is NOT a difficult pattern to make! One of the neatest gowns I’ve seen (you’d love this gown, Steph) was in black silk net with little silver moons embroidered in a scattered fashion over the gown. This would have been worn as the over gown with a silk undergown (long since gone). This incredible piece had been worn as a Halloween costume (It would have made the most amazing witch!) for years by the owner until someone pointed out to her that she was wearing a gown that was almost 200 years old. The woman was so surprised! She’d had no idea that it was the ‘real thing’. It had been in her family things with no history with it. (It’s now safely being cared for in a private costume collection.) This gown was very close to the Folkwear pattern.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Feb 21, 2008 2:39:43 GMT -5
Dan'a --- Lewis and Clark BIB Front??? I have Past Patterns Lewis and Clark gown pattern and I’ve made it several times, but this is a ROUNDgown pattern. Is there another pattern that I don’t know about? (I’m all ears in eager anticipation!) Steph, the back on the Past Patterns gown is WONDERFUL! It looks SO great! The Folkwear Empire Dress pattern is one of the most accurate patterns I’ve found. It matches closely several (more than several) extent dresses that I’ve looked at. And this is NOT a difficult pattern to make! One of the neatest gowns I’ve seen (you’d love this gown, Steph) was in black silk net with little silver moons embroidered in a scattered fashion over the gown. This would have been worn as the over gown with a silk undergown (long since gone). This incredible piece had been worn as a Halloween costume (It would have made the most amazing witch!) for years by the owner until someone pointed out to her that she was wearing a gown that was almost 200 years old. The woman was so surprised! She’d had no idea that it was the ‘real thing’. It had been in her family things with no history with it. (It’s now safely being cared for in a private costume collection.) This gown was very close to the Folkwear pattern. OOooh, that sounds scrumptious. Would the silk undergown be of a colour or just black? Was it for mourning?
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maudelynn
Clergy
~ I may not always make good sense but I ALWAYS make good tea!~
Posts: 193
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Post by maudelynn on Feb 21, 2008 12:18:43 GMT -5
Dawn, You are correct, that is a front closer in the L & C. I am mixing it up with another of my patterns that is bib/drop front. I wish I could lay my hands on it, but as my sewing room is part of the house that is being remodeled, most of my patterns are in storage! it is this pattern, but the manufacturer is not listed here. Now that is going to drive me crazy trying to remember! patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PI464
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 21, 2008 12:22:00 GMT -5
Oh, sigh! ... I thought you were going to tell me about a great new pattern. Is the Period Impressions pattern the one you are thinking of? I love that "Bibb Front Gown" pattern!
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 21, 2008 12:23:57 GMT -5
Steph, I don't think this gown would have necessarily been for mourning - though it could have been. It could have been smashing with a white silk undergown and more subtle with a black undergown.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Feb 21, 2008 12:48:03 GMT -5
Or a jewel tone like ruby or emerald... oooooh.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Feb 21, 2008 12:48:35 GMT -5
My sister just emailed me an Amazon gift certificate; so I got the Patterns of Fashion book.
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chiemi
Clergy
"Shelves in the closet. Happy thought indeed. "
Posts: 140
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Post by chiemi on Feb 21, 2008 12:53:44 GMT -5
Lucky!
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maudelynn
Clergy
~ I may not always make good sense but I ALWAYS make good tea!~
Posts: 193
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Post by maudelynn on Feb 21, 2008 13:03:08 GMT -5
My sister just emailed me an Amazon gift certificate; so I got the Patterns of Fashion book. I love that book! Mine is well thumbed through!
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