Post by dawnluckham on May 30, 2008 13:39:42 GMT -5
My newly ordered pattern from Reconstructing History has arrived.
I ordered #836 –the Half Robe pattern.
I have yet to make it up, and I’m sure it will go together just fine. We’ll see about how the sizing works when I do put this together.
However, I’ve looked over the instructions, carefully read the research page and I’ve looked at the pattern – laying it on the floor and pulling out my Janet Arnold – “Patterns of Fashion 1” and Nancy Bradfield – “Costume in Detail” to have open beside me as I studied the pattern.
These thoughts are just that: Just my thoughts. Some of it’s ‘wandering thoughts’. But I thought it would be fair to others to hear them. It is in no way intended to be a “criticism” but it’s a “critique”.
The pattern is almost an exact copy from the garment shown on page 44 of “Patterns of Fashion”. This is a c. 1795-1800 silk brocade half robe in the Showshill Manor collection. The RH pattern shows a tiny bit of a difference in the curve to the bodice at centre front. This pattern is most useful to anyone who is intimidated by the thought of drafting up the pattern from the book. In all honesty, it will save me a few hours of work so it will save anyone else the same hours of work. However, if you have the book, you already have the pattern.
I’m not convinced that this same pattern will also work for the second garment she suggests it can be used for. There is a dark brown printed linen “two-piece” garment dated c. 1798-1800 also in the Showshill Collection. This two-piece outfit is shown on page 79 of “Costume in Detail”. The half robe in this outfit has an inside fastening lining which is free from the back lining. To put this on, one would put your arms in and then need to fasten the lining, which has brass hooks and eyes down the front. Then the outer portion would be wrapped and tied. There is nothing at all in the RH pattern that would help replicate this lining and fastening system.
This garment also has little buttoned bands at the wrist of the long sleeves. While the short-sleeved pattern piece is an exact match to the pattern in “Patterns of Fashion”, the long sleeved pattern appears to me to be a “standard” sleeve pattern from the patternmaker’s stock. It doesn’t even have the seam line shifted to the back of the arm as was so common in period garments. And there is no pattern piece for the little buttoned wristband.
While I know that Kass has done a ton of research in other eras, traveling to locations around the world for study, this early 19th century / Regency era is fairly new to her. Quite frankly, her research page is a little bit disappointing. If you have the two books I’ve mentioned, you’ve got more information than she’s got on the research page. Though I haven’t seen these garments myself, I have met (up close and personal-like
) one who has. I’ve seen the photos this person took while on that study trip. From the research provided with the pattern, I’m not convinced Kass has seen these garments or even seen photos of these garments. I believe in this particular situation, the research has all come from the two books I’ve mentioned.
Now, I’m really not criticizing because the research is good – for what it is. It’s got a basic bit of information that is all accurate and it’s providing an already scaled up pattern, which will offer the simplification of many sewers lives!
But I WILL say, that if people do use the pattern, they would do very well to delve deeper with their own further research.
I ordered #836 –the Half Robe pattern.
I have yet to make it up, and I’m sure it will go together just fine. We’ll see about how the sizing works when I do put this together.
However, I’ve looked over the instructions, carefully read the research page and I’ve looked at the pattern – laying it on the floor and pulling out my Janet Arnold – “Patterns of Fashion 1” and Nancy Bradfield – “Costume in Detail” to have open beside me as I studied the pattern.
These thoughts are just that: Just my thoughts. Some of it’s ‘wandering thoughts’. But I thought it would be fair to others to hear them. It is in no way intended to be a “criticism” but it’s a “critique”.
The pattern is almost an exact copy from the garment shown on page 44 of “Patterns of Fashion”. This is a c. 1795-1800 silk brocade half robe in the Showshill Manor collection. The RH pattern shows a tiny bit of a difference in the curve to the bodice at centre front. This pattern is most useful to anyone who is intimidated by the thought of drafting up the pattern from the book. In all honesty, it will save me a few hours of work so it will save anyone else the same hours of work. However, if you have the book, you already have the pattern.
I’m not convinced that this same pattern will also work for the second garment she suggests it can be used for. There is a dark brown printed linen “two-piece” garment dated c. 1798-1800 also in the Showshill Collection. This two-piece outfit is shown on page 79 of “Costume in Detail”. The half robe in this outfit has an inside fastening lining which is free from the back lining. To put this on, one would put your arms in and then need to fasten the lining, which has brass hooks and eyes down the front. Then the outer portion would be wrapped and tied. There is nothing at all in the RH pattern that would help replicate this lining and fastening system.
This garment also has little buttoned bands at the wrist of the long sleeves. While the short-sleeved pattern piece is an exact match to the pattern in “Patterns of Fashion”, the long sleeved pattern appears to me to be a “standard” sleeve pattern from the patternmaker’s stock. It doesn’t even have the seam line shifted to the back of the arm as was so common in period garments. And there is no pattern piece for the little buttoned wristband.
While I know that Kass has done a ton of research in other eras, traveling to locations around the world for study, this early 19th century / Regency era is fairly new to her. Quite frankly, her research page is a little bit disappointing. If you have the two books I’ve mentioned, you’ve got more information than she’s got on the research page. Though I haven’t seen these garments myself, I have met (up close and personal-like
) one who has. I’ve seen the photos this person took while on that study trip. From the research provided with the pattern, I’m not convinced Kass has seen these garments or even seen photos of these garments. I believe in this particular situation, the research has all come from the two books I’ve mentioned.Now, I’m really not criticizing because the research is good – for what it is. It’s got a basic bit of information that is all accurate and it’s providing an already scaled up pattern, which will offer the simplification of many sewers lives!
But I WILL say, that if people do use the pattern, they would do very well to delve deeper with their own further research.