Men's tailcoat patterns recommendations.

[The Major]

I have found a few threads that discuss some men's Regency era tailcoat patterns. What I'm looking for is a recommendation. Being a military man, all my period clothes are military and I'm looking to build a civilian suit of clothes (I'll still wear a black cravat to show military or former military).

I focus on the years 1811/1812 for my living history impression and persona, so I would like to stay with the same time frame.

I am not partial to either English or French styling (by 1812 my family has been in the Americas long enough to hold no influence either way).

Eventually I would like to have both a summer and a winter suit. Winter would obviously be a wool suit. For summer, I would consider either a linen or silk suit, or one of each.

My sewing skills are intermediate at best. I am not a tailor nor experienced costumer.

I have thought about contracting the construction of the suit but do not know any tailors or seamstresses locally that builds period garments. Regular tailors/seamstresses want to charge an arm & a leg plus the other thumb. I have reservations about doing this option via long distance.

So, with all that said, what pattern(s) would be best for me for the application(s)? Or should I go with a tailor, and if so is there anyone out there that is reasonably priced? Your help is much appreciated.

Cheers,

[dawnluckham]

Major, the military coat is styled after a moderately fashionable cut. In other words, the military updated the uniform occasionally and the cut of the coat often followed conservative fashion. If you already have the pattern of your military coat, go with that one. Follow it to the point where you need to modify the tails.

Modify the tails to match patterns shown in either RL Shep’s book, “Federal and Regency Fashion” or the coat found in Norah Waugh’s “The Cut of Men’s Clothes”. There is also a nice earlier coat in “Fitting and Proper” and in “Costume Close-up”. Reading the text in all of these books will help you understand what is wanted in your coat. The Shep book is a period tailor’s text and it would help with understanding some of the finer details.

With regard to actual patterns we are still at a point where the ideal civilian men’s coat pattern is not offered on the market. There is a new one out by Country Wives, shown on the right hand side of this opening page: www.spencersmercantile.com/ I haven’t yet seen it up close to analyze it. One single report has said this is not a beginner’s pattern, but other than that, I have no idea about the clarity or detail of the instructions or what the final coat looks like when made up. Besides this coat pattern all the others out there I have seen - every one of them has “something”. Some are better than others.

Up until now, I have suggested that people purchase the Past Patterns military coat patterns which are extensively researched and have detailed instructions. www.pastpatterns.com/032.html www.pastpatterns.com/040.html On both of these patterns you would need to make changes to make a civilian coat. This is not impossible: It simply requires making a cotton-muslin mock-up of the coat and then adding or subtracting features to create the coat you want. It takes slow thought. You then take apart the seams and press the pieces flat: This becomes your personal pattern.

For what it’s worth, the slow and careful thought and the years of learning tailoring skills is why historic tailors are worth the money they charge. You can bet they are getting paid less per hour than the kid slinging hamburgers at McDonald’s. If you want something beautifully made, I’d say they are worth the money. I know it’s not the inexpensive route to go.

And of course, there is something to be said for the personal satisfaction one might have from creating his own beautiful coat.

[The Major]

Dawn,

Thank you very much for the info. Unfortunately I did not make my own military uniforms. I actually had one of the finest historical U.S. uniform tailors in the country (he makes many museum uniforms as well) make all of my officer uniforms. To ensure historical accuracy, and the tailored fit necessary for an officers uniform, it was needed and well worth it as that level of sewing is well beyond my ability. In this case, we know and see each other usually a few times a year, so he is able to measure and fit me. Unfortunately he does not build civilian clothing, at least not the last time I checked.

A question on the military coat patterns, wouldn't the collar need to be changed as well as the cuffs and tails? The military coat collar usually stands straight up. I don't recall civilian collars standing up like that.

I agree historical tailors are very much worth what they charge. However, I don't know any historical tailors locally, my reference was for local general tailors. The locals I have checked with will take a pattern and build from that and charge more than the historical tailor, while I would be skeptical of the garment being built 'right'. I'm just a bit skeptical of a long distance historical tailor being able to make adjustments as needed, at least for the first garment. From my experience with my uniform tailor, after the first garment, the tailor should know how to fit me (everyone's body being a little different as you know).

Are there historical tailors out there making good gentleman's coats and such? How would they go about fitting me if we're in different cities? Any recommendations?

[dawnluckham]

Yes, Major, You are absolutely correct: The cuffs, collar and tails would need to be changed if one was using a military coat pattern to make a civilian coat. My suggestion was in reference to the *cut* of the coat. The way the back fits; the way the front fits the body; the way the sleeves fit into the coat: These things can be taken from a military coat pattern.


By referencing some of the book patterns (suggested above) one can get a good idea of what the collar and tails should look like and how they should fit into the pattern pieces you already have for modification purposes.


Blending, for example, one of Past Patterns military coats with the images of the civilian coat pattern pieces will allow you to start with a commercial pattern that will give you a beginning for fit, sleeve shape, etc.


The technique I use to blend a commercial pattern is pretty “rough and ready”... I trace the pattern size I think will fit the person. I trace onto tissue paper (I use the rolls of examining table paper that can be purchased at medical supply pharmacies. It’s inexpensive and sturdy enough to use for sewing patterns.) Then I “eye” the shape of the book pattern pieces and just freehand sketch on the additions or the changes as I wish. Taping paper together to make big enough pieces is generally involved.


When I think I’ve “guessed” right, I cut this modified pattern out of inexpensive muslin fabric. I sew up using red thread and the largest stitch my machine does so that ripping out is easy and seams are well marked. The next step is trying on this muslin mock-up.

I use a red pen and I start drawing directly on the mock-up (this is why I prefer plain muslin to inexpensive patterned fabric. I want to clearly be able to see my notes and redrawn lines. I might make an exception for a windowpane check that would also give 1 inch or ½ inch increments.) I make notes about the fit directly onto the muslin fabric. I pin where necessary. I might even take scissors to the mock-up to change the shape of something.


By the way, it makes this fitting process easier if the mock-up is made with 1 inch seam allowances. I draw that one inch seam allowance (in red) on the fabric before sewing up. When trying on, seam allowances are generally put to the outside for easy access and manipulation. Things like collars may have seam allowances to the inside so size and proportion is easily assessed.


.......


If you decide to seek out a tailor of historical garments, I’m afraid I am ill-equipped to help you with tailors on the U.S. side of the border. I have worked with Stan Boyle at “History in the Making” and his work is superb. I did work with him at a distance. It was a museum job and there were several men involved. I took the measurements Mr. Boyle requested.


www.historyinthemaking.org/catalogue/Catalogue_index.html


This is a detail I would recommend: If your military tailor is not making civilian clothing and if you are dealing with another tailor at a distance for your civilian coat, ask your local tailor if he will allow you to pay him to take the measurements for the civilian tailor. You need the measurements to be taken by someone who understands how to take measurements. (I know it sounds simple and silly – but it’s amazing how often measurements for distance work can go wrong when a non-sewer is measuring.)


If you decide to work with Stan Boyle, clarify, specifically, the years you are looking for in a coat and ask to see pictures of a similar coat. Stan works with many, many eras and the work I had him do was not for 1812. In other words, decide if the coat he’s offering is c.1810 or 1825. Obviously, you don’t want the 1825 coat.


Another source for inquiry for you might be to ask about tailors here:


www.militaryheritage.com/film1.htm


I know Mr. Twist a little and his understanding of men’s wear for the 1812 period is second to none. I know the tailor working for him, but I hesitate to share that without suggesting you go through Mr. Twist. Primarily they deal in military clothing, but they may also be able to help you with civilian clothing and may be able to recommend a tailor on the American side of the border.



I hope all of that will help. I know it’s a lot of information and babble.

[Goblin, esq.]

May 24, 2011 11:35:37 GMT -5 The Major said:

My sewing skills are intermediate at best. I am not a tailor nor experienced costumer.

I should also like to make the obvious point, that even an experienced tailor or costume has difficulty in fitting himself.