Fabric heft and feel

[Lady O]

So, Regency is still new to me, and although I have done a lot of reading here (and other places), I am still a little confused. Perhaps one of you has the answers I am seeking.

I am planning my first Regency gown for a dancing event. I am currently thinking cotton (100%) as the fabric of choice. (As silk is expensive, and harder to wash!) Now, cotton seems to come in many different weights and textures (which I understand is all about weave, thread count, and other considerations). Yesterday I visited a large store in the textile district, and was a little overwhelmed. Let me say clearly - I am NOT new to sewing. I ended up buying 2 different cottons - one because of the price (1.99a yard!) that will become shirts, or chemises or something. The other is a very crisp, smooth cotton that feels incredible - which I am corrently considering as the outer layer of my ballgown.

My question is - will crisp work? I am confused as I see people choosing very light, flowy fabrics for gowns (such as Sari silk), and yet, taffeta and silk (All kinds of differntweights in THAT too!) are also reccomended for ball gowns. so..what should I be considering? crisp, or flowing?

Thanks so much!

[Miss Miller]

It all depends on your personal taste and the aesthetic you prefer, as well as the amount of trouble you're willing to go to in cleaning your Regency wear. If you lean more towards the neoclassical silhouette, which is more flowing, I would suggest cotton lawns or voiles. They're perfect for the full period, actually, especially for day gowns. If you prefer the slightly more structured silhouettes of the later period, then crisper fabrics are just fine. You really can't go wrong with lawn, voile, gauze, china silk or habotai, lighter shantungs, a fine organza, and even light dupionis for evening/dance wear. Cotton is of course easier to clean, but the finer weights are not widely available. and it's also a bit more breathable. Silk is more expensive but if you do some research and aren't afraid to order online, you may be surprised by the quality and reasonable prices you can find. I order nearly all my fabrics online and am very rarely disappointed. It really all depends on the effect you want to create and the style you prefer.
Hope this helps!

[dawnluckham]

Lady O, if you’re aiming for 1812 the crisp cotton is probably not your best bet. Soft, light, floaty, sheer fabrics are the choice.

Consider a cotton sari... Think of how soft and sheer this usually is. I know you’ve said you’re tall and the length of a standard width sari is probably a bit too short for you, but I’ve made a lovely sari gown for a tall woman and simply made a matching petticoat to go under it. The petticoat was the proper length for the lady and the sari border made a beautiful edge for the overgown.