Sleeves on Gowns

[cosmoblue]

I am a newbie and working on designing my first gown and I am not sure I understand about the sleeves. I have been looking at paintings and fashion plates and I can't tell if the long sleeves are supposed to be detachable? Do the attach with hook and eyes or are the stitched in and un-stitched.

[Mme de Beaufort]

Some day dresses had long sleeves during the final few years of the Regency period. But it also happens that when some ladies had a short-sleeved gowns, they would fill in the neckline with a chemisette, and add some false sleeves to cover their arms. It made the use of your gown more flexible if you go with a shorter sleeve, you can add sheer sleeves, lace sleeves, whatever you like! Buttons or hooks will work either way.

[cosmoblue]

Thanks! That is really helpful.

[tess]

I want to add some sheer sleeves for a summer dress (really hate my bare arms-ugh!). I have the material and plan on using hooks/eyes to attach them under the present short sleeves.

Should make the under-sleeves long enough to attach at the shoulder? Should I use the long sleeve pattern (plus extra length at the top) from my Simplicity pattern or should I try to fit the material on my arm to get that form-fitted type of look?

Also, can any of you seamstress type people give advice as to how to finish the top edge where the hooks will attach to make it withstand the abuse of being "hung" ?

It seems like it should be simple, but things never are!

[cosmoblue]

Apr 28, 2008 16:17:23 GMT -5 tess said:

I want to add some sheer sleeves for a summer dress (really hate my bare arms-ugh!). I have the material and plan on using hooks/eyes to attach them under the present short sleeves.

Should make the under-sleeves long enough to attach at the shoulder? Should I use the long sleeve pattern (plus extra length at the top) from my Simplicity pattern or should I try to fit the material on my arm to get that form-fitted type of look?

Also, can any of you seamstress type people give advice as to how to finish the top edge where the hooks will attach to make it withstand the abuse of being "hung" ?

It seems like it should be simple, but things never are!

I have no experience with this as you could tell by this being started by me, but this is what I'd probably do.

I'd use a slim fitting sleeve pattern from Period Costume for the Stage and Screen. Then I'd consider facing the edge of the sheer sleeve with petersham or millinery grosgrain. I might just bind or face the edge with bias tape. It would depend how much support the sheer fabric needs.

These are not exactly period correct solutions as far as I know, but they would work.

[lauren]

I agree with Cosmo. You could also do a double rolled hem on the edge and reinforce the hook and eye are with button or eyelet stitching. It will help hold the fabric better :-)

[dawnluckham]

Undersleeves or false sleeves were a very common and versatile item during this period.

Some of them simply had a casing in the top edge and they tied around the upper arm. This was a system used for the long gloves ladies wore as well and you can sometimes find fashion plates and portraits where the ties on the upper arms may be seen (for the gloves, I mean).

Hem the upper portion of the sleeve with a ¼ inch twice turned under hem and insert a cord to tie if you want to give this method a go.

Buttons are also documented and there is a little boy’s skeleton suit that actually uses the buttons as a decorative element. The short sleeve cuff has button holes in it and the long false sleeve has fabric covered buttons that button all the way around the cuff. Very cute! I don’t know if this would have been used in adult’s clothing or not, but I can’t imagine why it wouldn’t be. (I just don’t have documentation for it in adult clothing.)

Probably most common: The undersleeve is hemmed all the way around the top edge and is whip stitched to the short sleeve on the inside, when worn with the dress. (This is surprisingly easy and quick to do taking less than 10 minutes.)

When making my own dresses with false sleeves, I often do a reverse of the button method. I don’t have the buttons show. I place the buttons on the inside of the short sleeve cuff and I hem the undersleeve all the way around the top. I then add either button holes all the way around the undersleeve top or I make thread button loops. This way I can start a cool morning in long sleeves but as the day warms up and I wish to wear short sleeves, I can remove the buttoned on undersleeve with ease. (Again, I have no documentation for this system – but it works for me.)

[tess]

Thanks so much for all of the advice! I never cease to be impressed by the fount of knowledge on the ORS boards.

I have the fabric, but now have to find the time ;D

Just out of curiosity... how far back to hook/eye closures go (historically)?

[tess]

Apr 29, 2008 16:38:09 GMT -5 tess said:

Just out of curiosity... how far back to hook/eye closures go (historically)?

I think I found what I really needed to know just now as I was looking at the MFA extant garments in the Inspirations thread. A 1815 dress listed hook/eye closures, and ultimately that is what I was wondering. Thanks anyhow!