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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 13, 2007 18:28:02 GMT -5
True, coats were often not fully lined, but it's hard to get affordable wool that is light enough and fulled enough to not fray. The only stuff I've found is coat-weight, and not cheap. Given that I dance in California, the wool I use necessitates lining.
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Post by dawnluckham on Dec 13, 2007 19:43:22 GMT -5
I’ve seen the Rocking Horse men’s coat made up and it’s very nice. It doesn’t have the small back of the earlier period, but it does have the m-notch collar option.
Reconstructing History has a new Regency era men’s coat pattern just out! Haven’t seen it made up, but I’ve seen the pattern and it looks like it has potential. A friend will be making it up soon and I’ll post her comments on the pattern when she’s finished working with it.
Of course, Saundra Ros Altman’s patterns are impeccably accurate. She’s got two military coats that convert very nicely to civilian men’s coats with a bit of tweaking in the “tail” area. I’ve seen them made up in this manner and they’re lovely.
I understand Kass McGann of Reconstructing History is working on more Regency era patterns. Her research is excellent.
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Post by cosmoblue on Dec 13, 2007 19:53:22 GMT -5
I had not ever seen the Reconstructing History Site. They have neat stuff. I look forward to hearing a review of the coat.
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 13, 2007 20:20:17 GMT -5
I've heard a lot of good things about Reconstructing History. I didn't know she was putting our Regency patterns. That's great! She seems to have both a frock coat and a waistcoat pattern, too. www.reconstructinghistory.com/
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 13, 2007 21:48:56 GMT -5
Mens shirts are pretty simple - all the pieces are rectangles, and they were not fitted. Simple enough that I wouldn't spend money on a pattern. One of my web-references seems to no longer exist (ah, the ephemeral web), but this one describes a period shirt in sufficient detail to reconstruct: www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel/shirt.htmJas. Townsend used to sell period drawers, too, but I cannot find them on their website any more. I made mine by simplifying a breeches pattern, and referring to The History of Underclothes by C. Willett Cunnington and PhiIlis Cunnington, which is fascinating reading in and of itself. Since underclothes were washed, and washing during the Regency was very rough on the clothes, they tended to be made of linen, which does shrink, but otherwise wears like iron. For the same reason the buttons tended to be dorset or thread buttons, which wouldn't break during the process. You can buy these, for example at www.wmboothdraper.com/Buttons/buttons_main.htm or make your own. To make them, just take somewhere between one and two yards of heavy thread (buttonhole twist, for instance) and wrap one end around a pencil or knitting needle several times, then thread the other end on a needle, carefully remove the coil from the pencil, and sew buttonhole stitch around the coil until you run out of thread. You may want to use the last few inches of thread to sew several stitches across the back of the button (and perhaps sew buttonhole stitch along this loop) to use to attach the button to the garment. It takes some experimenting to get the right thread length and diameter of the stick, but since shirts might only use one button at the throat and one at each cuff, it doesn't matter as much if they're not identical in size.
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 13, 2007 23:58:09 GMT -5
There is a good site that is mostly taken from a period pamphlet called "Neckclothitania", although said pamphlet was at least part meant as satire. homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.htmlI usually wear a neckcloth made from a large square (about 30 inches on a side) of very fine cotton; I think it was meant as a large handkerchief or scarf. I fold it in half on the diagonal, then in thirds, usually ironing as I go, sometimes with spray starch if I'm trying to be very formal. I also have a black silk square that I bought and wear in the same way. One trick, if you dress at home, is to not put on the neckcloth until you arrive, especially if you have to drive. Nothing spoils it like looking over your shoulder to merge.
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 14, 2007 0:08:10 GMT -5
I don't have a lot to say about this, unfortunately. I have cotton stockings from Jas. Townsend ( jastown.com/), and also a heavier pair of wool stockings, but they're off white, so they usually get worn with boots. I'm still looking for a source for silk stockings. I have some good shoes from Jas.Townsend, too, but they're a bit early for the Regency. For dancing I usually wear modern Dansneakers. I have a pair of plain black leather boots that originally belonged to the East German Army, whcih are quite comfortable; I've walked for several miles and even danced a ball (not Regency!) in them, but I really want a pair of good top boots or hessians. I have heard good things about www.shraderbootmaker.com/, but I can't afford anything at this point in life.
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Post by cosmoblue on Dec 14, 2007 1:24:52 GMT -5
Chris - Seriously you are a most amazing resource. I love all the information that you have to share. I am certain that my hubby will benefit from it.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Dec 14, 2007 1:35:01 GMT -5
I'm glad too, Cosmoblue has been dying for someone to answer her questions. I'm so happy!.
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Post by dawnluckham on Dec 14, 2007 9:35:53 GMT -5
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Dec 14, 2007 12:50:15 GMT -5
Here's another one of my favourite sites in the UK for men's garments. They do many periods and have pre-made items, but their Regency/Napolenic stuff is really nice. www.sutlers.co.uk/NAPSECT2.html
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 14, 2007 13:11:54 GMT -5
I'm glad to help. Actually, I'm just glad to have an opportunity to babble on about the stuff I've learned.
dawnluckham - I'm going to have to get a pair of those silk stockings! (I was due for another shopping accident at Smoke and Fire anyway...)
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Post by cosmoblue on Dec 17, 2007 22:25:08 GMT -5
I don't know anything about the Rocking Horse Farm 201: 1795-1820 Tailcoat pattern, as I haven't used it, but from the look of it I'd try it over the Wingeo one. Where can I get this pattern online? I can't seem to find it available.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Dec 17, 2007 22:55:50 GMT -5
I actually wanted that pattern originally, and wrote Rocking Horse Farm about it, and the new owner of RHF told me that they were 'reworking' some of their patterns and that it would not be available for a while. She directed me to Patterns of Time, but it wasn't there. That's how I ended up with Wingeo's pattern instead. I'm going to email her again. rhfpatterns splataol.com
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Post by cosmoblue on Dec 18, 2007 0:29:38 GMT -5
How very annoying that I can't buy it. I may have to go with the Reconstructing History pattern that no one has reviewed yet. That is very scary to me as I am not that great with menswear.
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Post by dawnluckham on Dec 18, 2007 8:15:43 GMT -5
I bought that pattern last year (when it was "under renovation" at RH). I did not purchase it from the pattern company, but scouted out the various merchants who sell historic patterns and found someone with it in stock. I can't recall who it was (possibly Smoke and Fire?). The point is, you need to look a little but it's available from the merchants, just not Rocking Horse. You'll need to search on line or perhaps make direct inquiries via e-mail or phone to different suppliers.
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Dec 18, 2007 12:27:09 GMT -5
How very annoying that I can't buy it. I may have to go with the Reconstructing History pattern that no one has reviewed yet. That is very scary to me as I am not that great with menswear. I'm planning on buying the Reconstructing History pattern and trying it out, but it will probably be months before I can give a review of how it goes together.
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Post by dawnluckham on Dec 18, 2007 21:44:50 GMT -5
Excellent, Chris! I can't wait to see the result!
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Dec 19, 2007 12:19:12 GMT -5
The owner, Sue Gilmour replied to my query about the frock-coat. Here is her response:
"Hi Steph, Yes, the pattern is still being reworked. I hope to have it finished in the spring. Sue Gilmour Rocking Horse Farm"
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Post by timkid628 on Nov 18, 2010 17:50:41 GMT -5
Would a gentleman If they had a double breasted non military 1812 cutaway pin it back on occasion or was this only reserved for military personnel?
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