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Post by cosmoblue on Oct 23, 2007 15:27:11 GMT -5
What are some of your favorite fabrics? What do you use each of them for? Where do you like to get them? Are you a white muslin gown girl, or a wool spencer girl, or a wool breeches guy? Do you love a print or do you feel most elegant in solids? Do you buy everything in local stores or do you special order everything online?
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Apr 7, 2008 15:28:53 GMT -5
Help, oh help, oh help...
I decided to try my hand at making some reticules and went to the local fabric store (3 stories tall, btw). I intended to get some cottons or maybe a silk and some scrap to play with. After falling into the by-the-pound bargain bin of fabrics I came home with all sorts of odds and ends (keep in mind, I don't really even sew).
Oh, dear.
I bought a pretty blue crepe-backed satin (not too shiny) and a silver dupoini, and now see that the slubbed silk is period incorrect.
Story of my life- jumping in before I've done my research!
So, I've stalled in making anything. I would like to ask what recommendations you might have.
My question for you more experienced folks is much as Cosmo's original.
What do you buy?
What would you make a reticule out of?
What would you line a bonnet with?
Are most modern satins synthetic?
What would you make a ball gown out of?
What would you make a chemise out of?
What would you make a chemisette or tucker out of?
My head hurts from fabric woes. Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
-T
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Apr 7, 2008 16:05:51 GMT -5
I may not be the queen of accurate, but I do like things to look nice, and except for the reticules, I've stuck to natural; non-synthetic fabrics. It tend to buy what I like, as opposed to what would be 'called for'; so don't count my choices as anything to go by if you want to be super accurate. What do you buy? ~ Silks, lots of various printed cottons and light muslins. I used dupioni silk for my pelisse (which eventually became my bonnet) however I've been told that wasn't a desirable fabric in the Regency period. Oh well. ::shrug:: What would you make a reticule out of? ~ I made all my reticules out of brocades (but they're synthetic), silk and in once case, a damask. If you plan to embroider them, I'd make them of a nice thick cotton. I line them in cotton. What would you line a bonnet with?~ I line most of them in organza or lace (although a cotton would be fine too, I'm sure. You don't want anything too slippery. Are most modern satins synthetic?A lot are, but Cosmo showed me some nice non-synthetics @ the fabric stores. They're not so chintzy-shiny-tacky looking, I don't think. What would you make a ball gown out of?Velvet (a new idea influenced by Cosmo); satin, silks, or a fine muslin or voile. What would you make a chemise out of?Muslin, batiste/lawn or cotton of some kind. It's underwear... Heh heh What would you make a chemisette or tucker out of?Voile, muslin, soft organdy or organza. Just stay away from super colour- saturated prints, huge floral prints, super -shiny fabrics with no... structure, or synthetic big-floral laces. Stick to subtle prints--the opposite of this one: us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/fabricsunlimited_1997_42541896hee hee! |
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Post by cosmoblue on Apr 7, 2008 16:14:27 GMT -5
What do you buy?
I buy cottons and linens, but I am a vegan so my options are limited. I did buy a poly-taffeta for my evening gown because I recreated a portrait gown. If I were going to do a ball gown I would probably go with another poly-taffeta. I like sheer cottons and spotted cottons and woven in patterns and printed patterns. I think that voiles are very pretty.
What would you make a reticule out of?
I would use a fine high quality cotton probably white. I haven't made one yet though.
What would you line a bonnet with?
Again I would use a fine high quality cotton.
Are most modern satins synthetic?
Goodness no. The good ones are all silk the synthetics are gross. In general though I would stay away from crepe back satins and ordinary satins as they don't generally seem to have the correct body for regency styles. They drape too much. I would look at light weight taffetas or duchess silks.
What would you make a ball gown out of?
I would either go with a poly-taffeta or a gorgeously hand embroidered sheer white cotton.
What would you make a chemise out of?
My chemise is made of cotton muslin (modern muslin). I have a cotton/linen that I was going to use but ran out of time so that will be my next chemise. My Kanniks Korner pattern reccommends linen or "calico".
What would you make a chemisette or tucker out of?
My chemisette will be a sheer cotton like a lawn or batiste or a voile.
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Apr 7, 2008 16:56:14 GMT -5
Wow. You ladies are quick to reply. Thanks for all the advice and information! What do you think of this cotton for a day dress from reproduction fabrics? www.reproductionfabrics.com/lines.php?type=view_larger&sku=LL814W&subcat=796 Would it be too busy for a dress? I know prints would be appropriate, but I didn't want to go around wearing something that was meant for drapes, ya know? |
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Post by cosmoblue on Apr 7, 2008 17:11:36 GMT -5
I am not really very knowlegeable on the prints yet. But I think it would work for a day dress. Personally I like to stick to prints that look more like stripes/florals where you can easily see the rows and columns of the repeat, but that is because I just feel like they look more "Regencyish" no real research behind it. I like this one: www.reproductionfabrics.com/lines.php?type=view_larger&sku=SB722B&subcat=739 |
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Post by dawnluckham on Apr 7, 2008 17:15:31 GMT -5
So Many questions!  What are some of your favorite fabrics? I love natural fabrics. I adore linen. I love the way it drapes and how comfortable it is to wear. I like to sew with wool. It’s such a forgiving fabric!  And silk just feels so luxurious – in almost all of its forms. Cotton can be lovely too – especially the lovely Egyptian cottons. Yummy! What do you use each of them for? Wool for winter things, linen for underthings and dresses, shirts, trowsers and even men’s coats and waistcoats – depending…Silk for fancy things. Cotton for dresses and shirts and underthings and the occasional spencer jacket. Where do you like to get them? I’ve always got my eye open for deals. Sometimes locally, sometimes on holiday, sometimes by special day trip – I’ll drive up to 3 or 4 hours for fabric shopping. Sometimes I purchase on line. Are you a white muslin gown girl, or a wool spencer girl?? Well, I don’t own or wear a white muslin gown, but I make them and think that they’re VERY versatile. The age thing has sort of prevented me – but my research says that’s silly – it’s true that women during this period could go from cradle to grave fashionably wearing white muslin gowns. Do you love a print or do you feel most elegant in solids? I like both, but I caution newcomers to train their eye to the right prints. It’s a learning process. I love stripes! ;D Do you buy everything in local stores or do you special order everything online? No! No! No! ;D I do both! What do you buy? I speculate. What would the next person want to wear? And I create wonderful “outfits” which people never buy all together.  What would you make a reticule out of? Silk, cotton, or linen – maybe a pretty bit of velvet. What would you line a bonnet with? Fine habotai silk or fine cotton. Are most modern satins synthetic? No, you can find cotton satin and silk satin. Satin is the weave of the fabric, not the fibre content. What would you make a ball gown out of? Silk, velvet or fine cotton of some sort. I've got a sari in the 'stash' for my own ball gown. What would you make a chemise out of? I love, love, love, my fine linen chemises. I’ve got rejected cotton ones now. I first made chemises out of cotton, but when I started wearing the linen one I had to make more. They are SO much more comfortable to wear – cool in the heat and warm in the cold. What would you make a chemisette or tucker out of? Fine cotton gauze, mull, or net. Or fine silk. This is a very lightweight and sheer or semi sheer garment. |
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Post by dawnluckham on Apr 7, 2008 17:19:00 GMT -5
Tess, that floral looks slightly off to me. It's hard to put a finger on it. Maybe the flower is too large or the print is filled in with too much in the background. "Sprigged" is a term they often used to describe their flowered patterns. It seems to suggest a bit of space between the flowers to me. However, they liked "Indianne" prints as well so some block prints are good.
Oh, and go ahead and use the dupion if it's not too slubby. They did use a similar fabric for lining often. It's not like this "lesser" quality of silk fabric didn't exist. It did. They just didn't look on it as if it was a high quality fabric.
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Post by cosmoblue on Apr 7, 2008 17:29:26 GMT -5
It's hard to put a finger on it. Maybe the flower is too large or the print is filled in with too much in the background. Dawn - I am glad that you said that. I was thinking something similar, that the motif was too large. I feel like it would make a big difference if it was 1/4 of the size. I felt like it looked a bit too 1700s to me. But I am still "training my eye" as you put it so I am never sure. |
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Post by Mrs Parker on Apr 7, 2008 18:11:47 GMT -5
I have bought white windowpane cotton organdy on ebay. This vendor has some really nice things. There is a satin striped silk chiffon that would make a stunning ball dress. stores.ebay.com/exclusive-silks_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZkm . They also have a "slubless" dupioni from China.  The fabric is shipped from India and takes a couple of weeks. I've never been disappointed in their products. Dancing is hot work. I would likely be miserable is velvet or synthetic fibers. Thai Silks has lovely habotai silks that are useful for covering bonnets or facing the brims. I use this or thin taffeta for brim facing and a sized open-weave cotton as a crown lining. I have another source that I use for silk but they no longer maintain a website and you'd have to order color cards. They however, have 102 shades of habotai. For handkerchief linen, I like Dharmatrading.com . |
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Apr 7, 2008 18:25:00 GMT -5
I have very little experience sewing clothes for women, but I do buy an awful lot of fabric, so I figured I might give my opinions to these questions as well. Please forgive me for not knowing any technical terms - I could not tell voile from batiste, so my answers have bore to do with fabric content.
What do you buy?
Many, many forms of natural fiber, predominantly wool and linen. Silk, too, but it tends to be expensive.
What would you make a reticule out of?
In matching fabric to the gown or spencer for which it is intended.
What would you line a bonnet with?
I'm not sure. I have never lined a bonnet in my life! I suspect silk would be too slippery, so I might use linen.
Are most modern satins synthetic?
Alas, yes. If it does not say "silk satin" assume it is artificial. Even if it does say silk, be suspicious.
What would you make a ball gown out of?
I am not sure. I will say silk (probably satin) here, as I am sure to make a mistake if I try to distinguish between the fancy sorts of cottons.
What would you make a chemise out of?
Linen. As fine as you can reasonably afford.
What would you make a chemisette or tucker out of?
Again, linen. Preferably as fine linen as you can afford, as it uses less fabric than a chemise. (Although I've found it hard to find very fine linen; possibly my lack of terminology is hampering me here - I had assumed that "handkerchief-weight" would be very fine, but the example I received was still quite sturdy.)
I hope this is not entirely unhelpful.
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Apr 8, 2008 10:10:56 GMT -5
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Apr 8, 2008 11:11:27 GMT -5
Tess, do not be daunted by the pattern. Cut your pieces, and start with the bodice, that's the 'hardest' part. Once you get it and the lining done and attached (which really is a matter of a few short seams), you've gotten through it. Then do the sleeves, which you just attack one at a time.
You'll be surprised how easy making a regency frock is, really. Next to the men's costume, it's as easy as pie.
Just take at it as a 'one-step-at-a-time' approach, and you'll be done before you know it. Promise. The S&S (Simplicity pattern) is very easy... don't let all those pieces freak you out!
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Post by cosmoblue on Apr 8, 2008 13:29:18 GMT -5
I definitely like the Green print better than the blue and brown one. Steph is right about the pattern. Simplicity patterns are easy to use and there are enough people here that have used it that you can ask step by step assistance questions. My only recommendation is that you not cut out the original pattern and trace it first. |
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Post by dawnluckham on Apr 8, 2008 13:30:18 GMT -5
Tess, I quite like the green sage fabric! Very nice and accurate. The Simplicity pattern isn't too hard. Do one step at a time. Ask questions when you have them.
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Apr 8, 2008 15:09:45 GMT -5
You are all so encouraging and confident in my proposed abilities (many thanks for the kind words). If only you could have seen me fighting with the sewing machine this morning trying to figure out how to adjust the tension (glasses, manual, foul words- it was ugly). I like the green print best too. I just wish it had some of my brown in it  |
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Post by cosmoblue on Apr 8, 2008 15:31:41 GMT -5
I like the green print best too. I just wish it had some of my brown in it Well even though the pattern doesn't have brown in it it would be quite lovely with a brown spencer or pelisse or muff or bonnet or reticule or tippet. You could also trim it with brown ribbon or something. |
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Post by lauren on Apr 8, 2008 15:39:51 GMT -5
I love the green print the best. I think it's elegant, yet simple. Also the shapes of the flowers are very period looking :-)
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Apr 8, 2008 16:31:14 GMT -5
Agreed... That sage fabric with the print is SO pretty, I love it. You could easily add some coordinating trim with a nice brown, it can only complement it; look at nature!
I'm excited to see the finished product.
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Apr 8, 2008 17:07:55 GMT -5
I think you've convinced me to order the green I love Cosmo's idea of adding brown trim/details. I'll have to see what strikes me. I just (like moments ago) got my order of the leather ankle "jazz" boots. There is a dark green pair that might work very well with that fabric. The universe is aligning for me to purchase it! I'll post pics of the boots on the approp. thread. Steph-I hope you are patient in regards to the finished product. I just finished lining my bonnet today. I'm really slow. |
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Where so many hours have been spent in convincing myself that I am right, is there not some reason to fear I may be wrong? ~ Jane Austen 
