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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Dec 31, 2008 22:30:58 GMT -5
I'm new to this costuming/sewing business, so I'm not sure, (and I usually don't do it), but does everyone do a mock-up before sewing the actual gown, or do you just "wing it?" And are they tremendously helpful?
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Dec 31, 2008 22:47:05 GMT -5
I shoot from the hip, and have never once done a muslin mock-up. Of course, that causes me a certain level of grief of course. But I'm too impatient and too pushy to be intricate and methodical. I wish I could be really meticulous, but I just can't seem to harness my patience to do it.
Hence, I am left with lots of cheats on my garments. My most recent ballgown was a travesty... luckily it was dark and nobody could see the many imperfections.
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Post by cosmoblue on Jan 1, 2009 2:07:11 GMT -5
I always do a mock up, and I find them incredibly helpful in making sure that my finished garment is beautifully fit and finished. Though I am a perfectionist and have OCD tendencies. I actually usually do a couple of mock-ups before I cut my fashion fabric. I did go to fashion design school and we had to do them there so it is a habit for me. I also do not usually use commercial patterns. If I were going to use a commercial pattern and I was pretty certain that I knew my size I wouldn't bother with a mock up. I don't when I sew modern clothes for my daughter.
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Post by dawnluckham on Jan 1, 2009 10:32:58 GMT -5
Always, always, always do a mock up on a new pattern. ;D
If you don't know how the final outcome will fit/look why would you want to use your nice (possibly expensive) fabric on such an unknown?
Sewing results will be so more rewarding if you've "tested" the pattern first.
Like Cosmo, I took Fashion Design in college and learned to never take a chance without a mock up.
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Post by elizabethw on Jan 2, 2009 5:41:07 GMT -5
I nearly always do a mockup for anything that is closely fitted unless I've already used the pattern. I have a couple of exceptions that I've made on a serious time crunch but I made them looser than I would have if I had time to experiment with a mock up.
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Post by The Major on Jan 2, 2009 9:39:22 GMT -5
My Lady Dedlock,
I do not know if you will be sewing any gentleman's clothing, but thought I would put in my 2 cents. For the most part on new patterns, I always make a mock up first. With the nature of the way a gentleman's jacket or coat, and breeches or trousers are supposed to fit, there is no such thing as one size fitting anybody. So, until a mock-up is made, fitted and the pattern adjusted for a coat, vest, or trousers, an un-adjusted pattern cannot be relied upon. The coat of the Regency/Federalist period fits much higher in the front than modern coats (a mistake most costumers and reenactors make is to have the front fit at the same level as their modern clothing), with the vest protruding down under the bottom line an inch but not usually more than two. (I do not use the term waistline on purpose as the front of the coat stops much above what we modern folks think of as our waistline instead of where it actually is.) The under arm where the sleeve attaches is supposed to go right into the gentleman's arm pit (forgive the crude wording) which most costumers do not do. It takes a bit of getting used for wearing, but these coats are made for fashion and a certain look, not for comfort. But a gentleman will find that once he is used to this fit, he will actually have more flexible movement with the proper fit than a modern fit (I can move a lot better in my 1812 officers coat and trousers than I can the suits I wear to work), but it feels weird until he gets used to it. Then the tail can be as long as one wishes being careful to not make it so long that one is seen as a dandy, unless that is the intended impression. Trousers and breeches are to fit snug (a change from the Georgian/Colonial era where the seat was somewhat baggy. (Again, another mistake often made by costumers and reenactors for the Regency/Federalist period.)
The shirt on the other hand, considered an undergarment and only the cuffs and collar allowed to be exposed (otherwise he would be indecent with sleeves or body exposed in public) is usually very loose fitting and is so simple to make that you can get by without making a mock-up.
So, you can see that with a gentleman's coat, vest, trousers/breeches, &c, it is very necessary to make a mock-up with a new pattern until it is adjusted and tweaked to fit correctly.
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Post by lauren on Jan 2, 2009 14:04:25 GMT -5
I tend to work as I go, like Allseeing. It does cause me some greif sometimes. If it is a more difficult pattern I will usually play with the pieces before I start sewing them.
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Post by Val on Jan 3, 2009 14:51:34 GMT -5
Because of these clothing pieces being fitted to the body, it's a good idea to do it. I only muslin the bodice portions since that's the crucial part. However I am lazy, and sometimes wing it w/o a muslin. But that's only if the pattern is close to my size and will only need some minor alterations. If it's a new pattern, or new era to you, and you're not familiar with how they were constructed, it IS a good idea to practice on a muslin. Some of the constructions methods totally throw me.
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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Jan 3, 2009 20:54:21 GMT -5
Thank you all for replying to my question - it was all very helpful. As for men's clothes, I am sure I will absolutely do a mock up (especially the coat), because I haven't sewn any men's clothes before, and they seem a bit daunting -
and for the Major - your information was extremely helpful - about vest length vs coat length, etc. How long would a man's coat tail have to be to be before he is considered a "dandy"? I'm not sure if I want a dandy-ish husband :-).
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Post by The Major on Jan 5, 2009 7:00:32 GMT -5
Lady Dedlock,
Probably the best rule of thumb would be to stick to the lengths in the pattern you are using. But for a more specific, for his coat, make the tail at or above the knee.
I've seen woodcuts of dandys with coat tails down to their ankles. It may be my modern sensibility showing through, but it really looked weird.
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Jan 5, 2009 19:44:47 GMT -5
Once again, I find I have nothing to add to the Major's detailed and well-thought-out description, apart from stating that I agree with it.
The only times where I have not first made a mock up have been when I was making what were essentially variations to a pattern which I had used before. My greatcoat, for instance, used the same pattern as my naval uniform coat, only cut slightly larger.
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Post by Anna on Jan 7, 2009 1:09:51 GMT -5
I don't make muslins on modern patterns I'm pretty sure will fit. I do for historical stuff, but generally only bodices and maybe sleeves - the parts that are likely to be troublesome or that I might want to alter.
You can also think of making a 'wearable muslin' - use inexpensive fabric and leave extra seam allowances in case it's unworkable or you need to adjust, but make sure the fabric is something you would be willing to wear so that if it works fine you have an extra dress.
Yet another alternative - if something is going to be lined, you can make up the lining first for fit. Then if it fits right the first time you've got your lining already made, and if not you probably were using an inexpensive lining fabric and can redo it without much trouble.
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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Jan 8, 2009 15:12:18 GMT -5
You can also think of making a 'wearable muslin' - use inexpensive fabric and leave extra seam allowances in case it's unworkable or you need to adjust, but make sure the fabric is something you would be willing to wear so that if it works fine you have an extra dress. This is what I usually do, I didnt know it actually had a name - cool! These are all great ideas - I guess it would depend on what I'm making for how much of a mock up and what kind of prep I would do - makes sense! Thanks!
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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Jan 11, 2009 2:37:15 GMT -5
Okay, so for a fitted bodice (corset-like) - would you do mock-up with muslin as the outside, then the proper lining material, as well as the interfacing with the proper material and then add the boning too? or would you just do a simple one layer mockup and see how it fits? Use cotton duck as an interfacing, for example, if you were to use it in the mock up, would you re-use it for the finished product? How about the lining material?
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Post by elizabethw on Jan 11, 2009 5:58:28 GMT -5
I think 3 layers is probably not necessary if you really need to build your support garments into your dress (for whatever reason) then maybe you might need 3 layers, but you're usually better off making a corset and dress separately. In answer to your question I'm in the process of fitting a mockup of a corset from the Mantua Maker pattern at the moment. I'm using one layer of drill for my mockup and this will be one layer of the finished product, I would use the sturdiest of your fabrics for your mockup as that's the one that's going to be doing all the work and the others are really just there to look pretty on the outside or make it comfortable on the inside. It's good to have some boning on hand that you can add if it's not doing what you want it to e.g. when I first tried on my mockup I found that I needed more bust support than I was getting from the busk alone so I inserted a bone into the seam allowance of the seam to the outside of my bust (just sew right next to the edge of the fabric and you have a channel between that and the seam itself that you can slide a bone into) If you want boning somewhere other than a seam you can use bias tape to make a boning channel. So yes I would use your cotton duck for your mockup and if it works keep it as your interfacing.
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Post by Val on Jan 12, 2009 11:00:12 GMT -5
MyLadyDedlock, just as a note to your concerns about making a corset: with my first two gowns, I did NOT have a corset yet. I wore an underwire bra for some good uplift. BUT your gown will not fit you the same way later if you then make the corset to wear with it. Just an idea if you're desperate to be able to make and wear a gown NOW.
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Post by dawnluckham on Jan 12, 2009 21:09:57 GMT -5
Amen to that! I did the same thing way back when. I had to sell the 'old' dresses as used and make new (smaller) ones when I started to wear stays.
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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Jan 13, 2009 2:35:49 GMT -5
ah yes! Good point there. Thanks for the advice ladies - you have been extremely helpful, as usual!
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