Fear of Commitment

[cosmoblue]

Okay, I am freaking out a little bit and for no good reason. I am going to be making my first historical costume ever for the ORS Feb event. I am starting with the shift/chemise and the stays/corset. I have received my patterns in the mail and I cannot start on them. I don't know why. I have read the instructions over and over again. I just cannot layout or cut out anything. I was not this freaked out about making my wedding dress. Argh! I am totally making this harder than it needs to be. I should just do it and get it over with. Then I can say "well this was the first one that I made don't look at it too closely". I am sooo picky.

[dawnluckham]

Cosmo, you're a seamstress, right? What pattern are you using for the chemise and stays?

Start with the chemise. It'll get you "rolling" so to speak. It's easy: It's hidden underneath: And if it ends up a little big, no one will know except you.

Have you made stays or corsets in the past? The most challenging thing about corset making is inserting gussets - and really - it's no big deal.

The other thing about stays and corsets is to make sure you're using the right materials: Last Fall I sat down with one disappointed young lady who's sister had helped her make a set of stays from the Mantua Maker pattern. They had made it in the early Summer and used quilter's cotton and eyelets from the fabric store. A few months later and only a few times worn, the stays were falling apart. Make sure you use a fabric that's sturdy enough and grommets or washer backed eyelets or if you're going for authenticity, hand-do your eyelets.

After stays, work on your petticoat. By then you’ll be feeling confident enough to dive into the fun part of dressmaking.

[Mme de Beaufort]

Cosmo, please don't freak out. Let me relay to you my own dauntedness when I saw the pattern for the stay; I thought OMG OMG OMG OMG! I can never do this!!!!

Then I made the shift, and thought heck, I'll cut the stay pieces, and start from there. I just kept saying 'heck, I'll do this next step', and next thing I knew I was binding the edges and holding it up in awe that I'd done it.

I felt the same way about my husband's drop-front breeches, which turned out ot be easier than the waistcoat, and I did that first. And the frock coat too, which I ended up doing TWICE.

PS, my Ravenrook patterns arrived. :::FREAKING OUT:::::

[cosmoblue]

dawnluckham - I am not exactly a seamstress. I am a fashion designer/patternmaker who can sew. I am using the Kannik's corner shift and the Manuta Maker stays. I think that you are right and I should definitely start with the chemise. The only corsets I have done have been modern/fashion corsets. I am not worried about the gussets that much. When I was in school I loved to use gussets and godets on everything just because I like details like that. I think that on these first "practice" stays I am not going to be able to do hand worked eyelets since I sew very slowly since my daughter was born and I have so much to do by February.

Steph - Thanks for the support. I just have to say what the heck. I'll just do it. How do you like your new pattern, I heard the packaging from them is beautiful.

[Mme de Beaufort]

The packaging is indeed pretty. They have them folded into a printed slip cover tied with white ribbon. There are two sheets detailing pieces and such, a booklet for instructions and then four packets folded as any standard pattern would be. I haven't unfolded any yet, in fact, I've ferretted them away for when I have to buy fabric (I need give DH a few more weeks to shed his annoyance with my sewing mess before creating a whole new one).

The stay only took me a few hours, you know. It's frightfully easy to do once you get past the annoying gussetts.

The lady from the Fitting Room recommended I try the bodiced petticoat instead, to see if that helps contain the girls and to keep them from climbing up to my chin. I'll pass on the info since you too are duly endowed.

[cosmoblue]

Steph - If the manuta maker stays end up looking jenky I will consider a bodiced petticoat, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there are no issues with them.

[dawnluckham]

I'm sure the stays will work out fine. Remember the pattern runs small, so make one size up from whatever the measurements say. Also remember to keep the busk the right length for YOUR body. The busk, should have 'clearance' at your lap, when you sit on a flat, hard surface with your feet flat on the floor. Making the busk too long is the main trouble people have when they make their stays. The busk covers the belly, but does not run the full length of the stays.

[cosmoblue]

Thanks for the tip on the sizing for the stays. I would certainly have gone with my size. Also thanks for the Tip on the busk length. The directions say 1 1/2" above the bottom, does that sound right to you?

[dawnluckham]

Treat the 1 1/2" instructions as an estimate - not direct instruction.

Really: Trust me on this one!

The length of a busk on stays is a very INDIVIDUAL measurement. It has to do with how long your own torso is and obviously not everyone is the same measurement.

You must be able to sit flat on a hard surface with your feet flat on the floor (a wooden bench works very well). Sit up straight and hold the busk to your own body. The busk needs to fit in the stays pocket and it needs to come from the top of the stays to just above your pubic bone. If it's longer than that it will push upward and will push your bust up toward your chin every time you sit down (probably not a look you're after). It can also be quite uncomfortable putting pressure on the bone.

So many people don’t know this little tidbit of information and it really makes a world of difference. You’ll be much happier with the stays if the busk fits you.