Lawn, Cambric, Batiste, Organdy?

[lastbloom]

I am planning a chemisette (the mushroom pleated one from Arnold), and it calls for cambric; the others are either of cambric or lawn. Could someone explain the differences between cambric, lawn, organdy, and batiste? Which are preferred for chemisettes and caps? I have organdy and batiste available at my local shop, but not lawn or cambric. The organdy is quite stiff and sheer, which I thought would be nice for the pleated ruff and for ruffled caps, while the batiste is limp and fairly opaque -- more like a thin muslin; should I look online for more accurate fabrics?

[dawnluckham]

Lawn : www.textileglossary.com/terms/lawn.html

Cambric: www.answers.com/topic/cambric

I think your idea of making the body of the chemisette out of a softer fabric and the pleated ruffles out of organdie will make for a very nice look. You’ll get a nice crisp collar. It’s also very period correct. It was quite common to make the ruffles on men’s shirts out of a finer (often more delicate) fabric than the body of the shirt.

[missmardi]

On this same topic, I have a question. I, too, have been planning to make the same chemisette from Janet Arnorld's book. I have a fabric, which I have forgotten the name, that is period appropriate that I was thinking of using. My hesitation is that it has a faint woven check pattern. Would it be appropriate to use this for the body, and a plain fabric for the neck ruffles?

[lastbloom]

I'll let someone else field the fabric question, Miss M, but I was curious to know how you are handling the "small tucks" Arnold says to make on the front. I spent a few hours going bananas trying to figure out where they were supposed to go, how deep they were supposed to be, etc. I luckily found what I think is the same garment in Bradfield's Costume in Detail (pg. 91 in my edition) and it shows what I think are 5 small tucks on the front shoulder. My mock up of the body is rather...uh..."full" looking since I didn't stitch down the tucks at all.

Also, what is the recommended seam allowance on these patterns? I used 1/2" on my mock up, but it seems excessive in retrospect.

Are you planning to starch your frills? My husband has a giant can of spray starch that he uses on his uniforms when there is an inspection coming up, but I've never used starch before in my life and I'm worried I'll scorch something!

[missmardi]

I haven't actually tried it yet, nor have I completely figured out the details. This is one of many projects I convince myself I will have time for, amongst all the sewing I am doing for others in out regiment right now. I also am new to starch, so it will all be a learning process. I am still convincing myself that I am ready to scale the pattern up to real size, and then my size. I figured this was a good one to start with before I try the wrap front gown a few pages earlier in the book.

[lastbloom]

I'm new to drafting up, too. The chemisette was pretty easy to scale up, and it fit me fine with no adjustments. I'm probably a dress size 2-4/petite small. I don't know what I'm going to attach the frills to, though -- it says 1/16" tapes, but I've only seen one source for it (B. Black & Sons) and I'd have to order a big roll of it.

So, naturally, I put that project on hold and drafted up the Morning Dress (the drop-front one a few pages earlier) last night, and the only adjustment I had to make was removing about an inch in the armpit on the front bodice piece. The back is extremely small, but it is cut on the bias (so it has a little stretch) and I feel like it forces the shoulders back into "correct" period posture. I did forget to try the mock up on over my chemise last night; I was relieved that it still fit over the chemise when I tried it again this morning.

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to "edge stitch" my dress fabric to the linen lining, since the lining is made up first and then, as I understand it, the "fashion fabric" is sort of applied over the top. It seems an odd way to construct a dress.

[missmardi]

I made that same dress using the Period Impressions pattern. I don't have it or the book in front of me, but I think the part you are talking about is where the tabs are in the front. The fashion fabric does not extend as far as the lining. I would have to look at the book/pattern/both, but I think I just folded the edge of the fashion fabric under at the front, and sewed it down.

My challenge with scaling these patterns up, is that I am not even close to regency size. I wear a 12-14 dress, and I am 5'10" tall. It will be an adventure, when I finally get the chance to try it.

[lastbloom]

Thanks for clarifying that part! I was actually more confused about the method of joining the whole bodice to the whole lining; I think the original is entirely edge-stitched, which seems crazy. I think the easier way to do it would be the usual/modern way where you put the lining and fabric bodices right sides together, sew, and flip right side out again, and then do the applique bit on the under bodice piece. Is that how the PI version tells you to do it? I can't imagine laboriously prickstitching all the way around the entire bodice -- ugh! Do you have pics of your Period Impressions dress?

I can imagine how much more challenging scaling up would be if you aren't near the original size -- thankfully that hasn't come up for me (yet), because I don't have the skills to deal with enlarging! It's the only time being a complete shrimp comes in handy...almost makes up for having to use a stool to get into my kitchen cabinets!

[missmardi]

Lastbloom, I think I did sew the edge the modern way and flipped it before attaching it to the waistband. There is a picture of me in my dress, with my stepdaughter, in the review of the Period Impressions 1812 bib-front dress review thread.

regencysa.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=reviews&action=display&thread=200&page=2

I will try to check that for you, but I am in the middle of some crazy sewing orders.