#DD-01 Daffodown Dilly Regency Era Wrap Stays

[lastbloom]

I just started my stays! The pattern is so nice, and I love that it is on heavy paper instead of flimsy tissue. The small number of pieces is very comforting, too I cut out the size small, and the "A" gussets, but I am running into a little trouble.

The gussets are so tiny that with the 1/4" seam allowance, I am having the worst time sewing them in. Admittedly, I am not so great at sewing small things with my machine! I managed to get one of the gussets in and when I flipped it over to look at the "right" side, it had a bad pucker right at the bottom point where the little triangle was, almost like a pleat. Would it be more sensible to try to sew these in by hand? Should I decrease the seam allowance to 1/8"?

Edited to add:

Do you think this might be an easier method for dealing with the smaller gussets? Could this be combined (in the 1 layer gusset) with your finishing technique of folding over the lining seam allowance and hand sewing it over the raw edge of the gusset?

www.koshka-the-cat.com/1830_pattern.html

[Mme de Beaufort]

My recommendation with gussets of all sizes is as follows:

Sew one side two-thirds of the way to the bottom.

Sew the other side two thirds of the way to the bottom.

Snip into the cut so your cut is shaped like an upside-down Y

Tuck in the little point from the front,

and then sew all the way around.

I've posted my little drawing in a few places... maybe it will help.

[lastbloom]

Thanks Steph! I'd seen your little drawing in another thread, and that's pretty much what I did. I was able to make it work on my second try using a slightly smaller seam allowance. I think the stays will fit, but it looks like I might need to shorten the shoulder straps quite a bit. I started to sew things on backwards last night (no sewing after 9 pm!) so I am giving it a rest tonight.

[lastbloom]

Hi Dawn, I hit some snags and I am hoping you can give me some suggestions!

I finished my lining a while back and did a proper fitting today and the stays are huge. I cut out the small with A cup gussets, and I am swimming in them. My ribs are only about 28" around under the bust, so I tried bringing the ties around the front (as intended) then back around and tied them behind. That did help the lower portion fit snugly (but not very smoothly) to my ribs, but I ended up pinning out over an inch (maybe closer to two inches?) from each shoulder strap, and then I took in about 1/4" from the center front seam, and 1/4" all along the length of the horizontal seam as well. I haven't marked the lining yet or basted the changes, but it still seems like the top is loose. The straps keep inching their way off my shoulders and the gussets aren't doing anything but flattening my bust -- I just feel like everything is sliding around. I reread the section on fitting and trying it on, and from what I understand I ought to make the stays in a smaller size, except of course there isn't a smaller size

Did I do something wrong? I'm scared to take it apart and retrace the new "pattern". I realize that the problem is that I am just not an average size -- I have a very hard time finding modern clothing, too, but I am hoping I can work this out.

Can this corset be saved?

[dawnluckham]

Yes, of course it can be saved! Do you have access to a digital camera and do you think you can e-mail me a few photos of you in the mock-up? My e-mail address is on the pattern envelope. I'm very happy to help you work through making your stays. I'm not a "standard" size either so we all need to make adjustments and I'm sure we can get it right for you.

[lastbloom]

Thank you SO much! I really appreciate your help. I'll take some photos today and email them to you. I basted the changes in dark thread last night so they'd be easier to see.

[lastbloom]

A couple of photos, in case anyone else has some advice! My boobs keep sliding down from their "scooped' position. I think having a busk in place might help? I am getting a sports bra sort of effect, but I think that it's just because I am pretty darn flat chested.

Tied in front:

flic.kr/p/9cXJxL
flic.kr/p/9cUCP2

Tied in back (wrapped around twice):

flic.kr/p/9cUFxB
flic.kr/p/9cXKWL
flic.kr/p/9cXKr9

[Eleanor]

I haven't tried this pattern yet, but your comment about your breasts sliding down from the "scooped" position is the problem I've had with making stays, as well. The gussets are pretty similar from stay to stay. What is it that needs to be adjusted to fix this? My latest attempt is the Mantua Maker long stays, with a busk, but the slippage is the same.

[dawnluckham]

Barbra, the busk should help with this a lot. You can also use a bit of wool or cotton wadding to help: At the bottom of the V of the gusset, make a little “shelf” or “pocket” with wadding. This gives you a little bit of something to rest the breast on and “hook” that will prevent the gusset from pulling up over the breast. Pad it up as much (as deep) as you need in order to prevent the breast from sliding down under the bottom of the gussets. This is a very period fix and technique.

And Lastbloom, We'll get it worked out. By the way. It's easy to shorten those too long ties. We'll take care of that once we get the other bits worked out.

[esther]

I've had good luck with making little half-moon shaped pads and sewing them onto the inside of the gussets. Think of them as the Regency version of the modern day "chicken filets" that women put in their bras today.

I'm flat-chested, so I have the same problems with slippage. My stays also ride up because of the same reason. I whip stitched the pads into my stays and they not only push up your cleavage, but they also lock your stays into place so that they won't ride up.

I got the idea from a re-enactor yahoo group that was discussing the same topic. There are a set of extant stays with these pads in them, if I remember correctly. I cannot remember the particulars, but I believe the pads to be a period-appropriate solution.

[Eleanor]

Thanks for the tips, gals!

[lastbloom]

Thanks so much girls! Dawn suggested I make a temporary pocket to try the stays on with a busk, and also pointed out that the top of the stays looked too high and that the gussets looked too short, possibly as a result of shortening the straps too much. I'm going to make a few adjustments today, including the little internal pads -- I expect things to fit better after this round. I can't thank Dawn enough! What a font of knowledge!

[lastbloom]

Okay, another busk convert! Once I had the temporary pocket with the busk inside, I saw a HUGE difference right away, things seemed to be staying in place better, and I was definitely getting a great period look. I put in one very sad, lopsided half moon pad on one side, just to see, and it really did help keep my breast from sliding down, but it looks terrible and lumpy (luckily it's just an experiment!) -- can anyone elaborate or share a photo of their padding?

[dawnluckham]

Sorry! I’m far, far away from home and the little computer I have has NO photos on it for me to share. Perhaps someone else has something?
Maybe there’s something on line that I don’t know about?

The original example I’ve seen has padding in the bottom of the V of the gusset. However, I think this could be made up something like a shoulder pad and sewn in as well. Make it “blend” from the bottom of the breast and thicken, creating a “shelf” upward from the V.

I’m glad there’s another convert to the amazing things a busk can do!

[Izodiea]

Inside View of Stays with pads -Fan photos from Burnley & Trowbridge Company on Facebook

www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/photo.php?fbid=112862988725135&set=o.286101116712

[esther]

The pads in my stays look exactly like the Burnley and Trowbridge pics that izodea posted. They really do work!

[amandamoose]

Ok I'm getting inspired to make my stays (mantua maker) would the half moon padding work in those too? also I was going to make a mock up first with some non stretchy sheet material I have do you think that would work?

[lastbloom]

Amanda, I think the little pads should work with any kind of stays. The gusset "cups' on both the Daffodown Dilly pattern and the mantua maker pattern are shaped the same from what I can tell. I'm still trying to figure out what shape to make my pads and where to put them for a smooth line...it's turning out to need a little more fussing than I expected, but it's a good learning opportunity for me.

I have used old sheets before when I didn't have any "real" muslin around and it worked fine! Sheets are about the same weight as muslin from the store anyway I can't wait to see how your stays come together!

[ista]

I finally got around to ordering this pattern & it arrived yesterday. I'm really looking forward to making them & seeing if they'll work on my very short waisted torso with far too much up front. I love how the directions are easy to follow. I'll post pics when I get them done