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Post by mrstilney on Dec 26, 2011 4:45:02 GMT -5
Hello, ladies and gents! I'm lusting after the chemisette I've attached from the Snowshill Collection. I was reading the pattern Janet Arnold gives for it (yes, for the same exact one - if you didn't know it, most of the items in her books are now in an archive [with admittedly low-quality photos]! www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk Search away!) and all JA says to do, since there is no pattern for the actual mushroom collar, is to cut it like so and mushroom pleat it.. But how to mushroom pleat? Is there any particular way this was done? I tried searching online and only came up with.. lamp shades. Ha! Thank you for any and all help! Attachments:
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Lady O
Commoner
Any Occasion for Ornamentation!
Posts: 9
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Post by Lady O on Dec 31, 2011 9:10:57 GMT -5
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Post by mrstilney on Jan 1, 2012 3:02:06 GMT -5
Thanks! Hopefully that link is fixed soon..
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Post by missmardi on Jan 1, 2012 3:36:22 GMT -5
I know we have discussed this before, but I cannot find the link right now. I, too was asking about how one might do this. Dawn informed me, that they had special irons, to press the pleats in. She also suggested using a crimping iron (for hair) to recreate this effect. I am fortunate enough to have access to a smocking pleater, which made pleating a breeze. I starched, steamed and pressed them. The one down side to this, is that if you take the threads out, the pleats will eventually relax. I am tempted to remove my pleated collar, and re--pleat, leaving the holing threads in this time. It would allow for the pleats to be pulled up tight for pressing each time it is washed.
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Post by mrstilney on Jan 1, 2012 15:19:58 GMT -5
So I guess I could just make a pleat pressing board with very small pleats? Are tiny pleats the only difference between mushroom pleating and regular pleating? I was also thinking about using a different fabric for the pleated collar. I'm using cotton voile for the body of the chemisette, but a stiffer fabric such as organza may hold the shape and pleating better. I recalled Fanny's evening gown from Bright Star (if you've seen it) and wondered how her collar stood out so well. Is lots of starching the only support?
Can you explain more about the holing threads?
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Post by aylwen on Jan 2, 2012 5:32:20 GMT -5
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Post by missmardi on Jan 2, 2012 19:02:54 GMT -5
I apologize, I made a spelling error, and did not check before posting. That was meant to say "holding" threads. When using a pleater for smocking, the fabric is picked up by needles, with thread. these threads are used to help with spacing of trows, when making your stitched pattern. Once the item is finished, the threads are removed. As I did not smock the collars, they are not going to keep their pleats indefinitely.
To answer your question about a pleat board, Yes. That would work also. We can gain the same effect, with alternative methods.
I made my entire chemisette out of voile, including the collars. I suspect that starching is likely the only support.
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Post by aylwen on Jan 4, 2012 2:53:24 GMT -5
Using a white vinegar spray when you iron the pleats works a treat. I use between 2W:1V to 10W:1V ratio. Press pleats with iron on the fabrics heat setting; do not ‘iron’ the pleats by moving the iron – press down and hold. Then LET COOL before moving it.
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Post by mrstilney on Jan 5, 2012 0:30:46 GMT -5
Thank you, ladies! You have all been very helpful
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Post by ladydetemps on Nov 6, 2013 10:20:38 GMT -5
Hello, ladies and gents! I'm lusting after the chemisette I've attached from the Snowshill Collection. I was reading the pattern Janet Arnold gives for it (yes, for the same exact one - if you didn't know it, most of the items in her books are now in an archive [with admittedly low-quality photos]! www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk Search away!) and all JA says to do, since there is no pattern for the actual mushroom collar, is to cut it like so and mushroom pleat it.. But how to mushroom pleat? Is there any particular way this was done? I tried searching online and only came up with.. lamp shades. Ha! Thank you for any and all help! I tried to make the same chemisette. stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/chemisettes-good-bad-and-ugly.htmlmushroom pleat confused me so I just did small pleats so it looked similar-ish to the photo. The Janet arnold book does say general dymensions for the strip to be pleated. it's a strip wider at centre than at each ends.
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