Costumes AND Dancing

[Lady O]

Having taken a look for this topic, I am unsure it has been addressed here - perhaps my newness here is showing and I have missed it, in which case I would be happy to graciously accept directions. On the other hand, my question may be a little too delicate for polite society, in which case I humbly beg your forgiveness!

My query concerns the combination of costume and dancing. All Regency events in my area center around dancing (so far as I have found), and I am NOT complaining about this, for I adore dancing - but it leads me to pose a few questions. I have done Ceili dancing, and I have started Contra Dancing (not a great leap!), and both m'lord and I find that it is hot work - and this is usually in modern, airy clothing!

What considerations do you take in your choice of cut, fabric selection, etc when planning a costume that will likely be worn for such a vigorating activity? I would assume natural fibers (100%cotton and linen are my fabcircs of choice for chemises and shirts), as we have experience doing outdoor events in full Tudor garb in the summer. Can a lady dance in a train? I have never dared try it - with all the backwards steps, I am sure to step on it and trip!

For the gentlemen - I understand that a jacket is required while dancing - which seems a bit of a tortuous extra layer while exerting oneself! Are allowances made - is it considered unseemlyfor a man to dance in waistcoat and shirt sleeves?

Any and all suggestions are welcome!

[Lady Sarah]

I am afraid that I don't have much that will be of any help, as I cant sew a stitch and thus never learned about fabric and such.
But one thing that may help your gentleman; Gentleman's jackets were not lined. The reason being that they never took their jackets off in polite society (or around people they were not well acquainted with). Thus, also, by leaving the jacket unlined, it will keep him cooler, if only a little.
I hope that this helps.

[missmardi]

As a reenactor, who loves English Country Dancing, I can assure you that you are correct on both counts. Dancing is very hot work, and Natural fibers for under clothing are most desirable. For the gentleman, most will say he certainly should NOT remove his jacket while dancing. We have found, however, that a light weight (tropical weight) wool or even a linen frock coat are far more comfortable to dance in. I also recommend a fan in your reticule, as well as one for the gentleman in his pocket.
I hope this is helpful. You will also find that as the summer approaches, there will be several events in your area that are not strictly dancing related. The reenacting community is gearing up for the bicentennial celebrations of the War of 1812. The next three years should provide much excitement, as well as opportunity for learning and regency socializing.

[aylwen]

Please don't have a train on your gown if you're dancing! I wear a chemise, drawers, stockings, short stays, gown and definitely have a fan nearby, plus a ready supply of cold water. I wear my hair up off my neck and find wigs and turbans too hot in our Australian warm weather.
I didn't line my husband's wool coat and he said it felt cooler than his cotton-lined cotton coat. He hates wearing a cravat so I need to work on that

[Goblin, esq.]

Dec 31, 2011 9:01:41 GMT -5 Lady O said:

My query concerns the combination of costume and dancing. All Regency events in my area center around dancing (so far as I have found), and I am NOT complaining about this, for I adore dancing - but it leads me to pose a few questions. I have done Ceili dancing, and I have started Contra Dancing (not a great leap!), and both m'lord and I find that it is hot work - and this is usually in modern, airy clothing!

What considerations do you take in your choice of cut, fabric selection, etc when planning a costume that will likely be worn for such a vigorating activity? I would assume natural fibers (100%cotton and linen are my fabcircs of choice for chemises and shirts), as we have experience doing outdoor events in full Tudor garb in the summer. Can a lady dance in a train? I have never dared try it - with all the backwards steps, I am sure to step on it and trip!

For the gentlemen - I understand that a jacket is required while dancing - which seems a bit of a tortuous extra layer while exerting oneself! Are allowances made - is it considered unseemlyfor a man to dance in waistcoat and shirt sleeves?

Any and all suggestions are welcome!

Well, first of all, it depends on the group/people you are dancing with; how authentic they expect you to be, etc. If you want to be authentic in manners, a gentleman would never take off his coat at a ball.

I have nearly always (the exception being rustic events like "Thieves' Kitchen") worn shirt/waistcoat/coat/neckcloth throughout balls, even in summer. As you presume, natural fibers are very important to comfort, and among them, linen reigns supreme. A linen shirt is much more comfortable in the heat than a cotton shirt. Also make sure that waistcoat back/linings and coat linings are also made of natural fibers. (And consider too the fiber content of any interlining in the coat/waistcoat.)

As others have mentioned in this thread, coats were often unlined, at least in the back, and waistcoats could have a single-layer back, rather than a back-and-lining.

You will probably still get hot if you dance wearing all this, but the natural fibers really make a difference in how fast you cool off once the set is over.

[bennettgirl]

as for your question if a lady could dance in a train... the answer is yes indeed. many early regency ballgowns did have a train ,they where pinned up for dancing however. i believe there even is a reference to girls pinning up their trains in one of jane austens novels.

[Lady O]

Thank you for all your kind replies! I think I will stay without a train for the time!

In terms ofdancing, I amnot part of a formal group- I am simply attending an event, and my desire to be more historically accurate is my expectation, not anyone else's! I feel better knowing that I am "correct", but the thought of "forcing" my husband toswelter all night hardly seems fair! In terms of linen jackets - I like the idea, but how does one ensure it still looks ...proper? There is a significant difference in the weight (and drape) of wool compared to linen, is there not? I have used linen for a shirt (which I adore), but have not ventured into wool territory as of yet, wool being rather pricy, and too often seeming to have more stretch than I want.

[dawnluckham]

Lady O, There are extent examples of Regency period appropriate linen tail coats. I think there may be images of some of them hidden somewhere on this site. A good heavy linen will make a lovely men’s coat.

Also, wool – especially light weight wool - works well for summer coats. If you haven’t sewn a tailored garment with wool, you don’t know what you’re missing. It sews up like a dream and it shrinks and stretches with steam. (Hides any puckers and stretches to fit better.) You’re in for a treat when you take this fabric jump.

Make sure your husband has a linen shirt; his waistcoat is backed with linen and his coat is either linen or has a linen lining – or as Aylwen mentioned if it’s a wool coat, you might want to consider no back lining at all. This will help make him most comfortable. You’ll be surprised!

[Lady O]

Dawn, thanks for your encouragement! Can you reccomend a good source for lightweight wool? I believe we are both from Ontario, so perhaps you know of someplace that is more..local?

[dawnluckham]

You mentioned you were in Toronto. Are you in the city-proper? If you are, have you checked the Queen Street West shops in The Fashion District? I was there recently, but was shopping for silk and skipped right over some of those little street-side “Mom and Pop” shops. There’s one that specializes in wools… I can’t recall the name – Wool House? (It’s in that 400-500 block). Downtown Fabrics – 436 Queen W - is always a good one too. You won’t find super-bargains but you’ll find gorgeous, gorgeous fabrics all along that section of Queen. There’s also easy Public Parking behind the KFC. There are a few more shops on Richmond – “King Textiles” and if you’re looking for silk – Sureway Silks

If you’re a bit out of the downtown area and most of your fabric shopping is done at Fabricland, keep a sharp eye out these days. Pretty soon the wool is going to going on sale as spring approaches. Don’t buy “crepe wool” for Regency wear. Aim for a tabby or a twill weave.

On-line, I’ve had pretty good experiences with Fashion Fabrics. Ask them to swatch if you’re not sure. 6 to 8 oz means a “Tropical” weight wool. 16 oz is a heavy weight wool. That little bit of knowledge helps when you can’t touch the fabrics.


I live 3 1/2 hours from the city or I'd say lets get together for coffee and go fabric shopping!

[Lady O]

Hi Dawn, I am a bit outside of Toronto - Mississauga (South End), so close enough to pop in! Perhaps we will bump into each other someday at an event! I have done the Queen Street shops- or at least a few of them, I often find them a bit daunting (disorganized, crowded, cluttered) as the prices are not well marked. I was at King Textiles Boxing week - I bought a nice white cotton there that has a very unique heft - the staff were very helpful - they even showed me the burn test to test for fabric content! Now that I have a little bit of a better idea of what to look for, I may try again soon!

I do tend to prefer Fabricland - I have about 3 in a 30 minute drive - but for fabrics like linen and wool, I might have to go further afield! (Although I DID score some gorgeous silk in the home decor dept for $10 a meter!)

[leenamaleesha]

fashion observers from these other cultures comment on the unseemly pace of Western fashion, which many felt suggested an instability and lack of order in Western culture.

[pinkweeds]

I chose to wear a train on a dress a few years ago that was about 3 feet in length It was very pretty when laying flat but I had forgotten to remember to bring pins to pin it while dancing. It made for a terrible mess while I danced but I loved the outcome of the dress so in the end it was worth it for me.

[esther]

You can also loop the train up over your forearm while you dance.