ivory
Shopkeeper
Posts: 16
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Post by ivory on Jul 14, 2009 14:24:33 GMT -5
www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5444.htm?search=M5444&page=1So, our local Hobby Lobby had a sale a few weeks ago and all of their mccalls patterns were only $0.99 SO I went through and pretty much got any pattern that I thought looked nice, (for .99 what can you lose?) Well This one is my favorite of the ones that I bought but it is a Renaissance costume. So could it work for regency? or be altered to work? I already plan to end the sleeve right before the second puff as I dont like the look of the puffs other than the one at the shoulder and I like middle length sleeves. Thanks!
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Post by threadlette on Jul 14, 2009 23:49:55 GMT -5
Hmm. It seems to have a good shape for later regency 1815 or so but it really depends on how it's constructed and whether you choose to use modern construction techniques or not.
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Post by dawnluckham on Jul 15, 2009 8:49:17 GMT -5
Possibly – if it’s just for a costume sort of thing. There are several points that would need consideration:
The main thing (and perhaps the most difficult to change) is the darts in the back. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a dart in the back of a late 18th c. or early 19th c. gown. The backs are either pleated, gathered or pieced with something (not exactly) like “princess” seams in the back. You can have bust darts in Regency clothing – but the back darts are a give-away that this is a costume.
The shoulder seams are not done the way they were in period. The shoulder strap was often a separate piece that wrapped over the shoulder with a seam at the front and a seam at the back. This was sometimes simplified with just the seam at the back. The separate piece is part of the “economy of fabric” mindset that period seamstresses would have. It takes less fabric if you cut a lot of small pieces instead of one large piece with a long projecting strap. The visual give-away in this pattern is the placement of the shoulder seam at the top of the shoulder (where we normally expect it to be in our modern clothing). If you move the shoulder seam as far behind the shoulder as you can, you will be more period looking.
Sleeve fullness: The fullness in the Regency era puffed sleeve is not evenly distributed over the top of the sleeve cap. The gathering has most (not necessarily all) of the fullness arranged behind the top of the shoulder. So – what you get from the front visually is a lightly gathered or flat sleeve and from the back you see a puffed sleeve. Without seeing the sleeve pattern piece, I can’t tell you if this sleeve crown is too large. You may have to reduce the crown size in order to make this look “period”. Sleeves start very flat looking at the turn of the century (1800) and with each decade the sleeves (generally) gain fullness and puffiness until you reach the very full puffed and plumped sleeves of the “Romantic era” (late 1820’s-1830’s)
Skirt fullness: This pattern has the skirt fullness evenly distributed all the way around the bodice. Regency era gowns have a flat front with fullness concentrated at centre back. You would need to re-plan the skirts to look appropriate.
Truth be told – I wouldn’t use this pattern to make reproduction clothing. There are lots of patterns out there that would make better Regency era gowns. However, as you said, you picked it up for $0.99 and it depends if you’re just making a “costume” or if you’re trying to make something ‘accurate’. If you’re going to go to the effort and the expense of purchasing period correct fabrics and you want it to look ‘right’ it seems more worthwhile to leave this pattern as costume.
Oh: and metal eyelets are a dead give-away. Metal eyelets did not exist yet. All lacing eyelets would be done with thread. And I think the way the lacing panel is constructed is not correct. This is a very modern design.
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Post by threadlette on Jul 15, 2009 18:09:31 GMT -5
Haha. I surrender, all hail the all knowing dawn. She has this pattern nailed and it really would be a lot more work than it's worth to change the back and alter the sleeves and everything else that would need to be done.
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Post by Anna on Jul 15, 2009 18:55:38 GMT -5
If you want a free pattern that will require some tweaking, pick up one of the good pattern books out of the library and scale up. Patterns of Fashion and Cut of Women's Clothes both have a few dresses. You'll end up with something really historical and it won't cost anything but time.
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Post by MyLadyDedlock on Aug 1, 2009 0:22:19 GMT -5
I have that pattern, but haven't even opened it - though it is not period, as most of the mainstream pattern companies generally arent (but I still use them) - you could modify it to "appear" regency. I am not a stickler for accuracy - I am nowhere near that good yet, so I use these types of patterns and then modify them - I recently made an open robe with, yes, darts in the back, and I do think it turned out well -you just have to be comfortable with the idea that the darts aren't accurate. If its for fun, why not try it? Especially if you have a bunch of material you don't know what to do with - every project provides hours of experience and you take away a wealth of knowledge. Shorten the sleeves, pull the seam to the back, and use the same fabric as the bodice. When you attach the skirt, pull all the fullness to the back, so the front is flat, when you do a mockup, and you should - (at least of the parts you are changing) if there doesnt seem to be enough fulness to pull to the back, add more fabric to the skirt (width), and then pull it back, and make period correct eyelets, of course - then you will be close :-)
My personal motto right now is - learn from the masters, but practice within my level of experience - I try to add something new Ive learned with each project. Good luck! If you do give it a whirl, please post the results - I'd love to see it!
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ivory
Shopkeeper
Posts: 16
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Post by ivory on Apr 2, 2012 22:34:52 GMT -5
Went ahead and made the dress (almost a year ago actually) I didn't use period correct fabric, and while I made some changes I didn't make all of them. It was most definitely a costume but for the event I was going to it was perfect. It was an event with a lot of people who didn't sew, so the dress code was any dress thats floor lenth, has the empire waist and isnt sleevless. I'm about to make this dress a couple more times, but this time im doing most of the changes everyone suggested. Its for another ball in Jane Austen "style" so its all for fun. But I really loved how it turned out. skydrive.live.com/?sc=photos&cid=b8031e68dfa4bf99#cid=B8031E68DFA4BF99&id=B8031E68DFA4BF99!545&sc=photos
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