Post by artemisiajolie on May 3, 2010 22:11:54 GMT -5
Pattern for the stay is from Daffodown Dilly, the embroidery pattern is from La Mode Bagatelle. I love this stay, it is so very comfortable and gives a beautiful shape. I would wear it every day if it would work under my modern clothing!
Oh my gosh! It is just gorgeous! I love the embroidery and the color. How did they make up? What do you think of the pattern? I was considering making it up but I was concerned about the ties spoiling the line of my gowns in the front.
I just can't tell you how pretty your new stays are -- too bad you can't wear them *over* your gown!
"Thus happiness depends, as nature shows, less on exterior things than most suppose." -- W. Cowper
Post by artemisiajolie on May 5, 2010 0:55:45 GMT -5
I do happen to have one of me wearing it! And I found it very easy to make up the 2nd time. The first time was the first garment I had ever made and it was still relatively easy, with some help from the designer And thank you for the complements; I agree Lady Barbara, it is nice to see attention paid to underthings, and really, was done in the day as well. It has 2 layers; the inner is plain muslin, the outer is a linen/cotton blend. lastbloom, as you can see, I tied one tie under each breast, and if you are even half as endowed as I, can hide the ties quite easily like this. One can't see a bulge at all outside the gown. Thanks Dawn! I was reminded when looking at the new bonnet in this section that I too had just made something, and should post it up
That's really beautiful. I love the color you used, and the extra decoration you stitched on it. I have Dawn's pattern too, and do plan to make it. I sewed up a bodiced petticoat I had half done but it doesn't hold in the middriff at all. All the more reason to make Dawn's.
Not to knock the petticoat: I think they’re necessary for proper support of skirts and I think everyone would do well to wear them. The gowns hang better with a petticoat. Excellent if you’ve got one!
But... In my own experience, the concept of the bodiced petticoat offering bust support with the addition of a few tiny little plastic bones ----hmmmm I haven’t found it to work to my satisfaction...
Let me try to explain why I don’t think it’s the best solution:
Historic research.... I know ONE person who says she’s seen a petticoat intended for bust support. Of all the people I know and converse with who do research on actual museum examples, there is one example that might offer deeper insight to this. BUT it is my understanding that the bottom of this example has been cut off. In other words, this example may show a petticoat skirt has been cut off; it may show that binding has been cut off or it may show that a long stay has been cut off to be a short stay.... One day I’d love to see this example for myself but it’s “one day”.... as it will involve a trip... Every other extent bodiced petticoat that I am aware of, is either an underpetticoat intended to support skirts and provide some opacity to sheer fabrics, or it is an overpetticoat intended to be seen with a spencer or a bodice of some type.
How boning works.... If you’ve ever noticed young women in strapless prom dresses or strapless bridesmaids gowns you’ll watch them continuously grab the top edge of the bodice to ‘hike it up’. These gowns have boning in them, but invariably the boning is only about 6 inches long.
Boning does not support a bust. Repeat after me.... Boning does not support a bust. Boning supports the fabric. Boning prevents the fabric from scrunching up. The CUT of the fabric supports the bust and the boning keeps the fabric from folding up on itself.
In order for boning to support a strapless bodice the boning needs to come all the way to the waist or below; the boned seam will be ridged enough that the flare of the hips will prevent the bodice from sliding down. There is usually a waist stay tape which belts snugly around the smallest part of the body (the waist), and that stay tape keeps the bodice from moving around. You’ll note that when I gave examples of modern strapless gowns, I didn’t mention bridal or wedding gowns. Most bridal (not all – but most) have what is called a corselet in the interior structure. The corselet is what supports from the waist up and the boning in the corselet prevents the fabric from collapsing.
Soooo.... putting a few little short bones in the short underbust bodice is not supporting your bust. The straps on the bodiced petticoat are what is supporting your bust in this case and it’s working, somewhat poorly, like a bra basically hanging your breasts from your shoulders.
The bodiced petticoat does not (and this is just my opinion) provide a good example of the Regency silhouette. It – kind of offers something... and you can actually get your bust somewhat high with a bodiced petticoat, but it doesn’t seem to offer what my own research has shown.
Jean Hunnisett offers a bodiced petticoat option in her pattern book, “Period Costume for Stage and Screen”. Two things I want to point out about this: Firstly, she indicates that this is a theatrical costuming trick. She says (and this is one of the grand queens of historical clothing research!) this is not an example of actual extent garment reproduction. This is a convenient alternative for the theatre. The second thing is that her bodiced petticoat pattern actually has gussets. There is some “cup” (for lack of a better term) construction in her pattern. There is some way to work beyond the mono-bosom and her gusseted bodiced petticoat offers a little bit of “separate” with the lift.
Finally: I’ve learned a lot about the different styles (and the styles seem to be endless!) about women’s support garments for the Regency (broadly using that term – I mean the transitional period from 1795-1825). Not all styles had a busk, BUT if you look back at some of the postings in the past, you’ll find a rather fun posting by Steph (our “AllSeeing” one ) when she discovered what a busk will do. The busk really does make a huge difference and the lift and support (to the fabric – not the bust ) is rather amazing. It makes for a very attractive silhouette as our dear artemisiajolie has shown us. There is a reason this busk style stay evolved into the primary form of stay and corset design for the rest of the 19th century. It “worked”!
Edit to add:
I just want to add that I try very hard to adhere to the “never say never” philosophy in my historic clothing research. I’m always willing to have my mind changed if something new and interesting teaches me to think in new directions. So it’s very possible that eventually I’ll find the garment out there that will teach me that bodiced petticoats could have been used for bust support.
It’s just up to this point, I haven’t been convinced.
I agree with you Dawn about the sillouette that a full Regency corset gives you. I looked very different with mine on when I wore it, and loved the look it gave my gown. I'm only using the bodiced petticoat as a backup when I don't have anyone around to get me in the corset. I do plan on making yours since I think it's something I'd be able to get myself into. It's just so darned hard to find lady's maids these days.