bitsy
Shopkeeper
Posts: 10
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Post by bitsy on May 21, 2010 14:34:48 GMT -5
This pattern is giving me fits as far as sizing is concerned. I had read that there were sizing issues with this pattern on several review sites so I was prepared for some wonkiness but this beats all. I mocked up one out of cheap muslin that matched my measurements and it was narrow all over, the length was fine perhaps even a tad long, but my back pieces were on my sides, my side pieces were on my front and my front didn't come close to spanning my bosom. My fiance suggested we try adding 1/2 to the sides of each piece and that helped but the front is still too narrow and the chest gussets seem weird and still too close. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
-Sarah
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Post by dawnluckham on May 21, 2010 22:30:51 GMT -5
I once (years ago now) spoke to Linda Sparks of Farthingales about the Mantua Maker pattern. I’m not sure if she still has reviews of every pattern they sell on the website or not.
In any case, she told me she felt it good advice to make at least one size larger than what the measurements chart suggested – and then you may still need to add a bit at the back to get a reasonable lacing gap.
If you find that the current size doesn’t fit you correctly at centre front, then you really do need to size up. It sounds as if you don’t need to go longer. I also think this pattern makes a very long stays for most people. Be sure to make sure you shorten your busk to fit your body – not the length of the stays.
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Post by Val on May 23, 2010 9:48:52 GMT -5
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Post by mantuamaker on May 23, 2010 10:33:12 GMT -5
Hello bitsy! Google alerts told me you were having trouble with my pattern. I've been working on fixing the narrow back panel and I have a test pattern ready. Could I send it to you?
Please email me with your address, and any other questions you have.
Thanks, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker
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Post by amandamoose on Jan 14, 2011 15:11:29 GMT -5
I was wondering if those of you who've made these stays have a general idea of how much the cost was. I have gifts cards but don't want to go over them if I can with funds being tight after Christmas. Just a general estimate is all I'm looking for really. thanks!!
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Post by dawnluckham on Jan 14, 2011 18:14:54 GMT -5
I haven’t made the Mantua Maker stays as there is another full length stays pattern that I like, however – I have found that the most expensive item in stay-making in general is the cost of the eyelets/grommets and washers.
The most recent Regency era stays I’ve made I used 32 grommets and washers at the cost of $48.00
Cost of steel bones and bone tips: Under $10.00
Cost of fabrics: totally depends on what you choose to use – I used 2.8 m of fabric for double layers.
There is also the cost of cotton cord Corset lacing $5.00 Cotton twill tape Skein of embroidery floss Bias tape (you can make your own out of fabric of your choice) Thread Fray Check Basting glue Boning tape – under $10.00 Busk Silk ribbon
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Post by amandamoose on Jan 14, 2011 19:40:57 GMT -5
Which pattern do you use Dawn?
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Post by dawnluckham on Jan 14, 2011 22:50:43 GMT -5
I like the graphed pattern in Period Costume for Stage and Screen.
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Post by Izodiea on Jan 15, 2011 16:59:45 GMT -5
When I made my stays, I re-used a lot of materials from other projects so my final cost was probably $30-38 (Cording and the busk) But if I had bought everything new I would say $72-80.
Satin coutil (On sale) $20 lining and interlayer: $12 Cording: $18 Busk: $8 Boning (Zip ties) $5 lacing: $4 Eyelets (hand done) $0 binding (if I had bought it packaged) $5
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Post by lastbloom on Jan 23, 2011 19:15:55 GMT -5
I'm sort of tempted to purchase this pattern because it seems to run small. Is that still the case? It sounds like the designer may have made some alterations to the pattern to eliminate the sizing problem.
Aside from the sizing issues, does this pattern make up well? Are the instructions good?
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bitsy
Shopkeeper
Posts: 10
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Post by bitsy on Jan 23, 2011 19:59:23 GMT -5
I can tell you from the progress I've made on mine, which is the revised version, that the instructions are very clear. The adjustments in the new version made a big difference. Deb was also very helpful in telling me how to adjust them for my peculiar figure.
-Sarah
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Post by amandamoose on Jan 23, 2011 20:11:35 GMT -5
I still haven't started mine. Been working on my mom's hat. Would you say it's been relatively easy? I'm not the best at sewing and still feel a bit intimidated...
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Post by artemisiajolie on Jan 24, 2011 1:49:31 GMT -5
I just finished this pattern. I found it rather easy to put together, after making the necessary adjustments to fit my size. I've even worn it for several hours, drove in it and was able to eat and dance! I do think I need to make a few more adjustments; namely the part between the gusset and the seam is digging into me, even after removing the bones in that area. I suppose I'll have to trim it down. Over all though, I highly recomend this one. And even though its purpose is not to slim, I found it to be quite flattering.
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Post by amandamoose on Feb 6, 2011 16:09:15 GMT -5
Ok cutting up a sheet to make my mock up...should I do all four layers for the mock up or can I get away with just two? I know I'm partially being lazy but Hubby has taken the boys out for some dude time so this is really the only time I get to do this...so for speeds sake LOL I've got enough material to do all four layers but I want to start sewing. Any advice?
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Post by amandamoose on Feb 7, 2011 13:41:55 GMT -5
also in the mock up do you need to worry about stays and the busk? So far it's coming together pretty easily. I had a momentary freak out cause I could remember how to do flat felling but then I remembered lol and fell asleep I still have to do the gussets though and I think I've read those are what throw people off... I'm only doing two layers right now, so if that's a mistake let me know
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 7, 2011 13:53:52 GMT -5
2 layers should be fine for your mock-up. The busk makes a huge difference in fitting. You need it for this mock-up.
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Post by amandamoose on Feb 7, 2011 14:04:04 GMT -5
ok I've got a paint stirrer from lowes hopefully that'll work
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Post by amandamoose on Feb 8, 2011 16:05:20 GMT -5
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 8, 2011 18:38:03 GMT -5
It’s not necessarily too big. I see a couple of issues:
First – make yourself a lacing strip so you can lace up the back. This will really, really simplify the fitting process. We’ve discussed this somewhere before – I’m not sure where. The lacing strip is made of inexpensive packaged eyelets bought in the notions department. You’ll use them on this project but you’ll be able to cut the strip off and use it over and over again on any stays project you make.
Next thing I see is it’s sitting too high on the dress form. I realize the dress form is for the picture taking aspect, but the reality is that you can’t solely use the dress form to fit stays. Each body is individual and each SIDE of the human body has differences. You will need to try these on your own body to check fit. You squish differently than your dress form and you may have subtle differences such as one hip slightly higher/wider than the other etc.
The top of the stays should sit at bust point. More bluntly: The upper edge just barely covers the nipple. You wear a chemise with these stays and the chemise covers the upper portion of the breast. The stays lift from below. When you adjust the stays in position, you’ll see a wider opening in the slashed sections where the gussets will fit. The busk should fit right against your breast bone and the slashed openings will widen to create cups.
Ideally, you want an even gap all the way down the back where the laces go. You want that gap to be anywhere from 2 to 4 inches wide (some people prefer a wide gap and others prefer a smaller gap). 1 inch doesn’t give enough room for fabric stretch and for monthly fluxes in weight. I aim for 3 inches. The hip gussets help you achieve this even gap all the way down.
It is possible that once you adjust the upper edge of the corset to the correct position, you will discover that the torso is too long for you. Simply take a tuck in the waist of the mock-up and pin it down.
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Post by amandamoose on Feb 8, 2011 20:11:17 GMT -5
Thanks Dawn I'll move it down. I have been trying it on myself for fit I'll definitely take your suggestions though. I think once I get the gussets in I"ll be able to see more I don't want to over stretch it without the gussets to see if it fits in the back (going for a 3-4 inch gap I guess) as for squishability I'm nursing so depending on when I nursed last I maybe quite squishy or quite taut LOL I need to make a new chemise too the one I have isn't that great..good for a first time but I want to make one of an even lighter more sheer fabric possibly not too sheer though
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