Post by dawnluckham on Apr 2, 2008 15:18:08 GMT -5
First of all, Steph, let me know if you need me to make the size of the photos smaller. I'll be happy to resize.
Okay, here’s my blurb about the Connecticut Historical Society stays as seen in “The Age of Nudity” exhibit at the Kent State University Museum.
dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/nudity/CHS_1963_42_4.htm
I saw these stays in person when I visited the exhibition. I was allowed to take photos for personal study but was asked to promise not to post any photos I took myself. The museum would rather control what goes on the Internet and they do an admirable job of sharing their exhibits and their artifacts on line.
I was also privileged enough to be able to study a copy made by a lady who has had the opportunity to study these stays OFF the display manikin. This is sort of doing research third hand – but I was happy to absorb whatever info I could glean from playing with the copy as well.
Interestingly, these stays are single layer. Boning channels are done with tape. The original cups have a tie running across the top of each cup and also a tie under each cup working like an under wire (sort-of).
For some reason, this project demanded that I do all of this by hand. I don’t usually work this way. For me I’m looking for speed, efficiency and a polished result. I generally do everything I can by machine and anything that will show; I do by hand. I would certainly not do this for customers, but it will make an excellent demonstration piece. Here is a shot of the inside of these stays made up as the originals:
Also, notice how the shoulder strap is attached to the front of the stays in the originals. It’s to the outside of the cup. I discovered that these two things combined to make VERY little support for me. In fact – let’s be frank: It was embarrassingly droopy and I wouldn’t venture beyond the bathroom door thus clad!
Making it work:
First of all, I took out the two ties across the front and ran a single cord through each side to tie at centre front.
Front and back insides:
And this is the front and back outsides:
And here is what it looks like on: I’ve changed the position of the shoulder strap in the front. It’s now positioned at the centre of each cup. It gives quite good support this way.
These stays create some interesting ‘side spill’ in the way they seem to shape, but I could easily find fashion plates that show this same silhouette.
These are not my favourite of the Regency era stays I’ve made thus far, but they work. I think I still prefer the long stays best of all.
Okay, here’s my blurb about the Connecticut Historical Society stays as seen in “The Age of Nudity” exhibit at the Kent State University Museum.
dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/nudity/CHS_1963_42_4.htm
I saw these stays in person when I visited the exhibition. I was allowed to take photos for personal study but was asked to promise not to post any photos I took myself. The museum would rather control what goes on the Internet and they do an admirable job of sharing their exhibits and their artifacts on line.
I was also privileged enough to be able to study a copy made by a lady who has had the opportunity to study these stays OFF the display manikin. This is sort of doing research third hand – but I was happy to absorb whatever info I could glean from playing with the copy as well.
Interestingly, these stays are single layer. Boning channels are done with tape. The original cups have a tie running across the top of each cup and also a tie under each cup working like an under wire (sort-of).
For some reason, this project demanded that I do all of this by hand. I don’t usually work this way. For me I’m looking for speed, efficiency and a polished result. I generally do everything I can by machine and anything that will show; I do by hand. I would certainly not do this for customers, but it will make an excellent demonstration piece. Here is a shot of the inside of these stays made up as the originals:
Also, notice how the shoulder strap is attached to the front of the stays in the originals. It’s to the outside of the cup. I discovered that these two things combined to make VERY little support for me. In fact – let’s be frank: It was embarrassingly droopy and I wouldn’t venture beyond the bathroom door thus clad!
Making it work:
First of all, I took out the two ties across the front and ran a single cord through each side to tie at centre front.
Front and back insides:
And this is the front and back outsides:
And here is what it looks like on: I’ve changed the position of the shoulder strap in the front. It’s now positioned at the centre of each cup. It gives quite good support this way.
These stays create some interesting ‘side spill’ in the way they seem to shape, but I could easily find fashion plates that show this same silhouette.
These are not my favourite of the Regency era stays I’ve made thus far, but they work. I think I still prefer the long stays best of all.
Where so many hours have been spent in convincing myself that I am right, is there not some reason to fear I may be wrong? ~ Jane Austen 
I’d be happy to share them with you if I had them. When I had the opportunity to look at the replica I didn’t have a tape measure and quite frankly it wasn’t a situation that I would have felt comfortable pulling one out to measure things anyway. It was a “gift” to even be able to look at it. Just photos. 
So it's very possible that the straps are shown in the exhibit incorrectly. Truth be told, my photos of the replica shows the straps mid cup. (I wondered about that, but now I realize that it’s because it doesn’t work the way the exhibit shows.)
this is the first time I've ever used the Wassener Artificial Whalebone for boning. Interesting stuff! Very different than anything I've ever used before! It does have some similarities to a piece of real whalebone that I have for comparison purposes (salvaged from an antique piece that had disintegrated to the point of scrap). I'm not sure if I like the Artificial Whalebone though. It's very thick and awkward to work with. We'll see how it does over time. You can see how thick it is and how it seams to curve with its own grain – just as the real whalebone does.