Appropriateness of Darts

[cosmoblue]

I am just curious as to the appropriateness of darts in gowns. I know that they didn't use them early in the period, but when they did start using them did they use them in Bib Fronts ever? I didn't think so and that is why I didn't use them in my gown, but the next gown I am considering I am wondering if I can use darts to make it look the way I want. Can I put them on the side of the bib so that it is smooth over the bust? Can anyone post links to extant garments of bibs with darts?

[dawnluckham]

Cosmo, when I first started researching the Regency era, I ran into some “information” that stated that “darts weren’t used because they hadn’t figured out how to form-fit the body from that flat fronted 18th century style yet”. I took the information and believed it until I researched further.

It’s true that fit was often achieved through bias, pleating and cut (like the period form of ‘princess seams’ – though that’s not what they called them at the time). But they also used darts. The riding habit in Janet Arnold’s “Patterns of Fashion 1” is dated 1795-1810. The jacket definitely has darts.

What I have seen often is extensive, decorative seaming in order to achieve fit over the rounded bust shape.

I wish I could get a better look at this. I can see the bib front, but it looks to me as if there’s some vertical seaming happening over the bust.

www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/userimages/collection/large/batmc_i_09_940.jpg

Not a bib front, but look at how the insets in the bodice help achieve fit over the bust:

www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseAction=collection.disp&objectID=batmc_i_09_942

This is a bib front gown. Enlarge the image and try really hard to look at the detailing in the bib. There is a “v” or heart shaped upper piece and two lower pieces with a little bit of gathering through the heart shape.

www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/image.php?EMUSESSID=4d4ed491b2370dc13880da9da748f57c&imageirn=400275&r=1185471009

Look at this interesting bib front – not smooth like you’re looking for, but interesting none the less.

www.meg-andrews.com/showitem.php?item=6332

Here’s another bib front gown with great false sleeves. Look how the bib is cut into 4 pieces. I wouldn’t say that the upper portion of the bib is on a true bias but it’s certainly off straight grain if you look at the skirts of the gown.

www.meg-andrews.com/showitem.php?item=6342

Check out this interesting bodice treatment. I don’t think it’s a bib, but VERY different.

www.meg-andrews.com/showitem.php?item=6312

And HERE is a bib with DARTS!!!

www.meg-andrews.com/showitem.php?item=6235

[cosmoblue]

Thanks so much, Dawn! That last gown is exactly what I was looking for! Now I can make the gown that I am drooling over for my white day gown with darts. You always have so much information. Yay! I just had to exalt you.