Questions on making my corset

[Val]

I started this in the corset Pattern Review section, so am moving it over here.
My corset is corded, full length, and has a pocket for a wooden busk. I don't have a pattern or instructions since this was started in a class, and the teacher has never sent us the instructions as promised. So I'm using my little experience I had with my 1790s stays, and what I've seen posted here.
1. On the back of the corset, where the lacings will be, should I do a row of cording near the outside edge, and another a few inches in so I do the eyelets inbetween them?
2. My corset doesn't have straps that tie on. They were sewn to the front of the corset. Before I go any further I can release the stitching and convert it to the loose ones. Should I? I know it would make it easier to move them down my shoulders.

[dawnluckham]

For question #1, Val, take a look at my stays in the back, here (scroll down a bit):

regencysa.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=corset&action=display&thread=333

These are corded between the eyelets. This is completely period correct and exactly as they ‘should be’ for the demo I intended, but to tell you the honest truth, if I were making these to wear all the time, I’d use a couple of rows of boning to support the eyelets and the lacing.

Let me explain: I made these stays to show people what unboned stays were like in demonstrations. I’ve been giving talks on Regency support garments and I really want to convince women to wear some sort of period undergarment. So many people have this preconceived concept of corsets as boned torture devices that I wanted them to pick them up in the demonstration and be surprised that they are soft.

But notice how the lacing buckles in the back.

The original stays that this pattern was taken from had 6 whale bone stays in them: Two were on each of the back outside edges; then the rows of eyelets and then another bone. Sandwiching the eyelets between the bones prevents the buckling fabric you see in the back of my corded stays.

The other two pieces of whale bone were used to support the side seams at the underarm area. The wooden busk supports the front.

Both lightly boned stays (as in the example I have just described) and completely corded stays were worn.

I find it easiest to make the boning channels first, then do the eyelets and then insert the bones.

Question 2: The ties on the straps are totally up to you. I find I really like this feature as you can adjust the straps for comfort. You’ll find when wearing the stays that they don’t really “hang” from your shoulders anyway. I believe the straps are just there to keep the stays from shifting sideways (not down). If it’s not a lot of extra work to make the change, I think I might go ahead and do that, simply because it’s a nice feature, but it’s not necessary if you don’t want to do it.

Modified to add: In reference to your question on busk opening - top or bottom of the stays. I don't think it makes any difference if the opening is at the top or the bottom. both work.

The eyelets and the ribbon tie really does hold it in there nicely.

You will note, however, on my stays, the busk does not run the full length of the stays. My busk pocket stops at the proper length for my busk and the cording pattern on the stays fills the area below the busk pocket. If you need to wear a shorter busk than the length of the stays, you may find it easier to tie at the top.

[Val]

Apr 28, 2008 12:06:32 GMT -5 dawnluckham said:

For question #1, Val, take a look at my stays in the back, here (scroll down a bit):
regencysa.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=corset&action=display&thread=333

I remember seeing this and I really like your embroidery stitch on the "cups" (sorry, brain fart, can't remember what they're called) My sewing machine does some of these embroidery stitches, and I think I will have to do something pretty like this to mine.
And thank you for the answers you left for me. This is indeed helping. I'm getting more excited by the minute that I can actually finish this *finally*.

[cosmoblue]

I had to exalt you for posting this here! ;D

[cosmoblue]

Apr 28, 2008 11:05:05 GMT -5 Val said:

I started this in the corset Pattern Review section, so am moving it over here.
My corset is corded, full length, and has a pocket for a wooden busk. I don't have a pattern or instructions since this was started in a class, and the teacher has never sent us the instructions as promised. So I'm using my little experience I had with my 1790s stays, and what I've seen posted here.
1. On the back of the corset, where the lacings will be, should I do a row of cording near the outside edge, and another a few inches in so I do the eyelets inbetween them?
2. My corset doesn't have straps that tie on. They were sewn to the front of the corset. Before I go any further I can release the stitching and convert it to the loose ones. Should I? I know it would make it easier to move them down my shoulders.

1. On the back of the corset, where the lacings will be, should I do a row of cording near the outside edge, and another a few inches in so I do the eyelets inbetween them? My stays are boned on both sides of the eyelets. The distance is only twice the width of the eyelet.

2. My corset doesn't have straps that tie on. They were sewn to the front of the corset. Before I go any further I can release the stitching and convert it to the loose ones. Should I? I know it would make it easier to move them down my shoulders. If it is harder to move them down your shoulder I would think it would be good to make them tie. I had to push mine way over to the shoulder to wear with my gown.

In reference to your question on busk opening - top or bottom of the stays. Mine open at the bottom and the ribbon really does a fine job of holding it in place. If you needed to shorten the pocket you can just move the eyelets up to where you need it to stop.

[Val]

Dawn, I noticed on your photos of your corset that you have ties that run thru the binding on the top and bottom of the corset. Do you recommend this? I'm getting ready to start binding mine, and if so, I need to leave room in it for ties to run thru it.
Or is it just attached to the edges?

[dawnluckham]

Val, some of the photos I’ve shown for the other types of stays have ties in the bottom, but I haven’t done it in these long stays. Perhaps it’s the spiral lacing that is unfamiliar to your eyes???

The little ribbon bow that you see in the front picture of my long stays is the tie that keeps the busk in position.

However, I almost always run a cord through the binding from shoulder to centre front or from the back edges to centre front at the top of the stays. You don’t want to ‘gather anything up’ as far as the top of the stays go. It’s to just tighten the upper edge enough that it curls inward toward the body and just a little around the breasts to help prevent “spilling” out of the cups. This cord is tied inside the centre front of the stays.

Usually, I put the binding on and then I run the cord through the inside, using a bodkin (or if it’s giving me trouble, I use my trusty ‘loop-turner’). ;D

Aha! I just scrolled further down that thread I linked earlier and I see where you saw the bottom and top cording! It's in the Sense and Sensibility SHORT stays with the pink binding! And yes, in these stays, I find the cord at the bottom really does help - and for some reason, in Victorian era stays, I almost always run the cord through both top and bottom as well. But in my long Regency era stays, I found they only need the cord at the top.

[Val]

Thank you, that helps and makes perfect sense.

[Val]

No pictures yet, but I'm getting close to finishing my corset. I'm sewing the binding on now, and have decided to try doing handsewn eyelets, using a small metal ring within it to strengthen it. I'm going to practice a couple first before starting on my corset.
Maybe peekchurs tomorrow.

[Val]

As promised, some pictures of my corset. It's the last two on the bottom of this page www.pbase.com/cinnamonhrts/my_costumes&page=3
I still need to finish binding the bottom, and do the eyelets.
I discovered what the two holes drilled in the bottom of my busk were for (it was made for me at Costume College). They're for running the ribbons thru at the bottom thru the corset to hold it in. I realized that after Dawn and Cosmo explained on how to keep the busk inside. Had no idea before.
And I had a bit of a problem on the back where the eyelets are going: I made the two boning channels too close together but I managed to get enough room to do small eyelets. And I have to do them by hand because a grommet setter would require the larger 00 size grommets.
I'd hoped I'd have more done but I still find I get tired very easily from my bout with flu, etc, so it's going slow. But still making progress.
I'm not able to try it on for a photo yet (mainly for decency at this time) until I get some eyelets in it, and can close it in the back.

[Val]

Question for anyone who has handsewn eyelets: what kind of thread did you use? I was going to use buttonhole thread, but while perusing the internet, I'm seeing suggestions of different kinds of thread, like embroidery thread.

[Goblin, esq.]

May 3, 2008 22:59:59 GMT -5 Val said:

Question for anyone who has handsewn eyelets: what kind of thread did you use? I was going to use buttonhole thread, but while perusing the internet, I'm seeing suggestions of different kinds of thread, like embroidery thread.

I've always used buttonhole thread for handsewn eyelets. I have no idea if embroidery thread is sturdy enough.

[dawnluckham]

Val, I missed your posts when I checked the site earlier. I'm sorry!

I use embroidery thread when I make my eyelets. I make the hole with my awl and then button stitch around the hole. Sometimes I wax the thread and sometimes I don't. "They" say that it makes the thread stronger to wax it, but I find with the embroidery thread, it doesn't lie as prettily when you wax the thread.

[Val]

A little progress report. I finished binding all the edges on my corset, and am now sewing the eyelets, using DMC perle cotton. They're looking really nice, although the holes are a little smaller than I'd hoped. I didn't leave much room btn the two bones to do them. And they turned out easier to do than I expected. Only 20 more to go!
Picture here www.pbase.com/image/96686847

[Val]

I have been steadily working on my eyelets. I can't believe it's taken this long, but I'm down to only six left.
Tonight I did the two in front for the busk, and the large "buttonhole" for the busk to come out. I was just about done, when I noticed the eyelets are *above* the buttonhole. So the busk can't get in or out of the buttonhole. *sigh*
Hmm. I *could* try taking the stitching out of the eyelets and separate them, ie, separate them from the front and back so I end up stitching 4 eyelets. I think that's what I was supposed to do, not sew them together. Darn.
But we're getting close!

[dawnluckham]

Hmm. I *could* try taking the stitching out of the eyelets and separate them, ie, separate them from the front and back so I end up stitching 4 eyelets.

Yes! That is exactly what you need to do! ;D Good for you! Progress is good! ;D

[Val]

My corset is done done done. All except putting the plastic thingies on the lacings to make them easier to thread.
There's no one around to lace me in it, so I can only take pics on my dressmakers model at this time. And ARGH! the girls won't cooperate! Oh well. I may have to take in the gussets on the hips a bit but I won't know that until I can try it on me again. Things have changed in the last two months. That's a good thing!
So here we have the front and back. Click on the photos to see a large pic.
www.pbase.com/cinnamonhrts/my_costumes&page=4
I feel like it needs to be prettier, like with lace or ribbons. Suggestions? Or should I leave it alone?

[cosmoblue]

It looks good! I can't wait to see an action shot. I don't think it needs to be prettier. It is lovely already.

[Val]

May 16, 2008 14:06:52 GMT -5 cosmoblue said:

It looks good! I can't wait to see an action shot. I don't think it needs to be prettier. It is lovely already.

Thank you! Yeah, that seems to be the general consensus. I've never seen an extant garment with frills anyhow.

[lauren]

Loverly :-) I'm looking forward to seeing the fitted product :-)