To line...or not to line...

[tess]

I'm working on my Simplicity 4055 pattern and I've run into several questions.

The first is do I have to line it as indicated on the pattern? Since I have a chemise, bodiced petticoat and corset under it, lining it seems overkill. I'm wearing it in July and I don' t want to have a heat stroke.

Also, I want to use the bodice/short sleeves from view A, with the skirt from view B. Will that cause me a problem during assembly?

If I want to make it drawstring instead of button, will it be difficult?

I'm taking it to a sit-n-sew class tomorrow to get some general sewing help, but I wanted the input of Regency specialists before they give me their advice.

Thanks in advance!

[Val]

Tess, I've only made the original S&S Regency gown, so I can't be any help on the construction questions. You might try asking Jennie on her message board. In fact some of the other sewers there might be able to help too. It doesn't look like too many people are around here today.
I did line all of mine with a very lightweight gauzy type fabric but I think that would depend on how transparent your fabric is. I didn't have a petticoat at the time, so lining it solved that problem. I would at least line the bodice portion to give it body.
It's funny, when I made my first Victorian bodice, I wanted to make it out of cotton for a cooler gown. I wanted to eliminate flatlining it with twill and just do a cotton lining. Heather McNaughton of Truly Victorian said to please use the twill, and it would insulate me. Well, I didn't listen, and the finished bodice was limp. I've since made a new one, fully lined, and it looks great, and I'm not any warmer than I would be if the hot air could reach my body.

[dawnluckham]

It’s surprising, if you use natural fibers you can layer up and really, it doesn’t make you any more or less uncomfortable in the heat. I’ve found the BEST thing for keeping cool, however is to wear linen chemises.

I’ve made this gown and it’s fine to not line, however you will need to make a casing with bias tape or some other method if you want the drawstring option as the drawstring casing is between the fashion fabric and the lining. Yes, you can close with a drawstring if you prefer that to buttons. If you don’t mind the little bit extra fabric gathered up with a drawstring that the button extension leaves you don’t need to change a thing. If you want the back to fit smoothly, however, you will need to redraw the centre back piece: From Centre back, add your seam allowance and this becomes your new cutting line.

Lining in the skirt helps eliminate the possible need for a petticoat. If you wear a petticoat, you don’t need to line the skirt.

There should be no problems with switching the skirt and bodice and sleeves back and forth between the two views. You can pick and choose which pieces and design elements you wish to use in order to create a gown that is uniquely your own.

[tess]

Thank you so much for the advice. I'm going to line the bodice, but not the skirt. I'm using the short sleeves (and making underseelves later). I'm not much into puffy, but I thought I could maybe redraw it for less gathering.

Dawn,
Thanks for the notes on adjusting for a drawstring. I like the look of the buttons, but I'm afraid that may be more complicated, and I'm aiming for the path of least resistance. I'll have to see how brave I feel when I get into the project!
I made my chemise out of pima cotton and it feels heavy. I'm thinking of making another one out of a batiste linen, but my fabric store only has one in ivory right now.


Thanks again for the advice!!