Help - Men's Breeches Too Short

[lizziebennet]

Is there a way I can fix this? I think they are about 4-6" too short. I may have enough extra fabric to simply cut them out again, but I'm not positive.

TIA

[cosmoblue]

Is there anyway you could post a picture or could you tell us which pattern you are using. It may make a difference.

[lizziebennet]

This is the pattern I'm using, I took in a little of the fullness at the knee and shortened it into breeches. I guess I shortened it a little too much... I checked, and I do have enough to cut out the breeches again, though I really would like to salvage this pair if possible....

I can try for a picture later today, if that'll help.

[Goblin, esq.]

Off the top of my head, 4-6" sounds like a lot...

If you can only recut part of the breeches, recut the fronts, and piece the backs at the top. This will be hidden by the tails of the coat, and was done in period, too.

Unfortunately I can't think of anyway to add 4-6" to the fronts without it being visible. Try widening the kneebands a little , also the waistband. How much seam allowance did you leave? I generally cut breeches to the right length before I add the kneebands, so there's a lot of seam allowance at the bottom.

[erik]

Madam lizziebennet

I think Mr Goblin, has about the best solution for this issue.

I would add that you should bias stitch the changes (with plenty of extra seam allowances) and have your model sit and squat in them before doing the final alteration.

As pointed out the tails will cover the back of the legs and seat so don't be to worried about a bit of diaper but. Believe me it is much better to be able to move then to have a bit of unsightly sag in the back where no one will see.

One thing that can also help prevent to much wear in the seat is to tailor tack in a good prewashed piece of muslin to the area of stretch. The easy way to figure out this are is to take some old jeans that have been worn by your model and turn them inside out. you will see a wear pattern in the back that is a clear indication where their body puts stress on the the fabric (everyone no matter how small warps the seats of their pants). with luck this will take the stress of the wear.

[lizziebennet]

Hmm...I had my brother try these on this evening, and they aren't quite as short as I thought they had turned out... about an inch or so added to the band should fix it. Thank you all soo much for your help!

Mr. Erik, thank you kindly for your recommendation. I have noticed that the breeches pull up over the knee when he sits down (this is with no band on the bottom). Will adding more fullness to the back correct that problem?

[erik]

Madam lizziebennet,

The fabric going up over the knee may be a result of too little in the back or the need for a little more fabric in the inseam. The way it wrinklies can be a good key to know which is the critical point.

Forward on fit:
Generally mens breeches were tight in the front to give a smooth line, adding the knee band may capture and keep it below the knee bend. This will depend on just how much it rides up or how much it prevents a comfortable sit.

If you are using a wool, then I would also try stretching the fibers a bit and having him "wear into" them.

In trouser construction one of the hardest things to envision is that the front tends to be straight, hanging from the waist. The back tends to be sculpted around the glut and back of the leg. As a result when you bend to sit the material of the front must bend in two places, taking up more fabric to accomplish this.

Now logically you would think the top hip crease would give fabric and the knee bend would take it away. The human body is cruel geometry in this regard. Take a moment and look down at your own pants as you sit, note that the gathered fabric near the inseam are larger then those of the outside seam. On gentlemen this is even more so because we need to accommodate... er extra equipment. As a result of this incongruity the amount of fabric that is available is much less then one expects.

Now two ways to give the fronts some extra material to accomplish the bend is by either giving more room to the back so that the bend at the waist is tight (as in only a slight gather) or by providing a seat gusset that extends slightly down each leg inseam. When standing these are not(should not) be visible, but when pulled on by bending the gusset opens up.

This can be a bit tricky to pull of, I would recommend playing around with a muslin first then replicating it.

[lizziebennet]

Mr. Erik,

I *think* I understand what you are saying... you don't happen to have a diagram or pictures or something? I tend to be more visual. The breeches are linen and I do have some leftover fabric I can play around with.

Also - where is the knee band supposed to rest? My brother tried on his breeches again, and the breeches end about the middle of his knee. Will these look fine with a widened band?

Thanks in advance!