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Post by lizziebennet on Jun 13, 2008 22:33:22 GMT -5
I'm working on a vest like this one. Were all waistcoats lined in a light/white/cream color or can black be used? Do the vests of the regency have linen/plain fabric backs? Lastly, the part on the front, where the waistcoat folds back - is this just a small piece to line that certain area? Thank you in advance for your help!  |
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Post by celticgoddess81 on Aug 10, 2008 22:59:38 GMT -5
I am going to take a really large guess here and say that if they were all lined in white it was probably so that you couldn't see where the lining was and where the shirt was. You know so that the lining sort of blends in... Just a little guess. ~Lady Elizabeth
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Aug 12, 2008 19:21:59 GMT -5
The backs of waistcoats were never meant to be seen, so they were made of plain fabric, usually linen, often unbleached, which is a sort of light brown to beige color. I don't know if they were made in colors; I'd have to check my reference books.
I'm not sure what you mean by the piece that folds back. Are you referring to the facing, which is visible where the lapels fold back at the top? This is usually only large enough to cover the visible areas; the rest of the inside is plain, although it may extend down the front to hide the edge of the lining.
Will you be embroidering it? That should look fantastic!
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Jan 19, 2009 19:20:16 GMT -5
After falling off the face of the earth for some time  , I'm back with a waistcoat question. I thought I'd add to this thread instead of starting a new one. I'm trying to throw together a quick outfit for my hubby for a reenactors ball at our Frazier Historic Arms Museum. I'm trying to make a waistcoat from a commercial pattern (all I could find with no time to order one). The pattern I'm using is Butterick 3721. I thought if I used the BLUE version below, I could add a appropriate collar.  My trouble is that without having ever made anything with a collar, I'm not quite sure how to go about it. Can anyone post a pic of a regency waistcoat collar (the stand up sort) so I can get at least a general idea of what shape the fabric pc will be to work in the final product? Also, since I'm in a hurry and with limited skills, can I cut any corners to get to the finished product? It calls for lining. I'm using a tan linen for the back and lining, a sage green brocade for the front. Do I have to line the front, or could that be skipped? It calls for sew-in "hair canvas" lining which the fabric store folks didn't even know what it was. Should I line, then use a fusible interfacing? to I have to do either? Sorry for all the dumb questions. Once again, I'm a victim of my own enthusiasm. I figured "How hard can a vest be?". I'm starting to learn the limits of my own skills  Thanks for any advice and helping me pull this one off (hopefully!). |
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Post by cosmoblue on Jan 19, 2009 19:42:17 GMT -5
Can anyone post a pic of a regency waistcoat collar (the stand up sort) so I can get at least a general idea of what shape the fabric pc will be to work in the final product? There are a few waistcoats in the Men's inspiration thread. |
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Jan 19, 2009 20:03:56 GMT -5
I looked through those Kent State pics and a lot of Lauren's ORS pics, so I have a general idea of what the collar on the finished product looks like. Where I'm stuck is how to draw the pattern piece so it comes out like that when it is fitted into the waistcoat.
Do I follow the line of the neck opening to create the right curve in the pattern piece? I can't quite picture what the pattern piece should look like laid flat so that it will fit properly onto the neckline.
Do the topline of the collar and front collar edge meet at 90 degrees or does the edge come in more?
They look to be about 4" tall, does that seem right?
If anyone has a pattern piece they could post or draw, it would probably help since I'm communicatively challenged at times:)
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Post by cosmoblue on Jan 19, 2009 22:19:42 GMT -5
If anyone has a pattern piece they could post or draw, it would probably help since I'm communicatively challenged at times:) Could you post a photo of the collar that you are after? Depending on exactly what you want there are different ways of going about it. |
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Post by The Major on Jan 20, 2009 7:21:02 GMT -5
Hi Tess, Sorry, I've been very busy with school work (I can't wait this latest stupid degree is done, it's the last one I'm going after since I've decided that 4 is too many anyway, but I'm too close to just give it up). I can't see the blue waistcoat in the picture very well, but I can't see a collar on it at all. But that may be what you need to start with. With that assumption, 4 inches is indeed appropriate for the height of the collar. The front vertical edge of my waistcoat collars taper back slighting instead of a 90 degree angle, but it can be done either way and still be correct. The collars to my waistcoats of this period do not curve to match the opening, but the opening goes all the way around to the button down front whereas the blue waistcoat slopes down creating the opening in front, I'm not sure how to fit a collar to that. Most waistcoats in this time period come up the front to button at the neckline but are simply turned back to show the cravat, shirt ruffles, etc. To be perfectly honest, you need to start with an appropriate pattern. I have found that trying to fit a pattern from another era usually doesn't work very well. But I understand you're in a hurry. So here is a suggestion. If this is to be a quicky that you do not intend to use again, his coat will cover the waistcoat, so don't worry about putting a collar on it at all. Depending on where he is going to wear it, folks may not notice or may be understanding knowing this is his first time out. Then order an appropriate pattern and make him a correct waistcoat when you have more time. If he will not be wearing a coat, consider him lucky that he will not be at a function that he could be arrested for indecent dressing  (Sorry, I couldn't resist.) |
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Post by Goblin, esq. on Jan 20, 2009 20:25:20 GMT -5
The major is correct (as he usually is); the waistcoat needs to be cut so that it could button all the way up. I strongly suggest lining it - this will probably be faster than hemming the edge, too, unless you have wool that won't fray. As for interfacing, you could skip it if you were so inclined; I usually sew my waistcoats with just a strip of interfacing along the edge, to support the buttons and buttonholes. For collars, I generally just make it the length of the collar opening, and taper back the fronts at about a 60 degree angle (being an engineer, I own a 60-30 right triangle). You need to interface the collar, or it won't stand properly. 3-4 inches in height sounds about right, depending on the height of the coat collar, shirt collar, and the gentleman's neck. Here is a picture of one of my waistcoats, not being worn by a gentleman, alas. goblinrevolution.org/cgi-bin/pic_frame.cgi?pic=jean-5.jpg;list=indicies/thieveskitchen2006.index;base=costumes |
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tess
Clergy
"...my gown is to be trimmed everywhere with white ribbon plaited somehow or other." - Jane Austen
Posts: 172
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Post by tess on Jan 20, 2009 21:01:50 GMT -5
Major,
Thank you for your reply. It makes sense about the vest being cut very differently at the top. I couldn't quite picture where the extra little "corner" below the collar came from. Now it makes sense. If I hadn't already cut the fabric, I think I could have salvaged it! Oh well, live and learn. I think I will just leave the collar off, both for the sake of time and not to butcher an already inappropriate pattern. He does have a frockcoat which, in a dark room mixed with 1600's-1900's attire, will help to hide any issues with the collar or lack thereof. Of course, I would never let him be without his coat in a public venue. There may be others, however and I'll have to divert my eyes (blush).
I understand about school. I just finished a second MS this past December (hence, my lack of Regency activity). I have 94 grad school hours and my husband has reached his limits of patience on my search for the ultimate career! So, lately I've been singing, "No more teachers, no more books....". Well you get the idea.
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