Post by dawnluckham on Aug 13, 2008 11:11:26 GMT -5
With regard to sizing up grid patterns:
Different people have different ways to do this. A lot of people swear by the overhead projector system and size up the patterns to their own size and draw it on a sheet of paper taped to a wall with the overhead projector.
I find I prefer a more freehand format and I purchase one inch or one centimeter marked sheets at the fabric store for this specific task. Burda makes pattern paper with grid measurements, but other companies do too. Quilters use this stuff.
I just lay out the paper and counting squares on the graphed pattern sketch the shapes onto my grid paper. Some patterns use the metric scale and some use the imperial scale. I find it easiest to use the correctly corresponding paper, but in a pinch 1 inch = 2.5 cm.
Suzi Clarke had written extensive instructions for this on the Sense and Sensibility board. You can find the info here:
forums.sensibility.com/viewthread.php?tid=4051
Grading the original pattern to your size can be a bit trickier:
I generally make a quick muslin in the size of the original pattern just to see what it turns out to be. In the case of scaled to original garments these can sometimes be quite tiny. The Hunnisett “Period Costume for Stage and Screen” are all “size 12” fitting a body of approx 36 bust, 26 waist 38 hip. I can tell you now these are NOT my own measurements but sometimes her patterns fit my size 10 (ready-to-wear) shape.
Essentially you need to determine from your muslin of the original pattern how many additional inches need to be added to the pattern in order for it to fit you.
So, if you need 5 additional inches and the bodice piece is made up of a centre back, two side pieces and two front pieces (left and right) totaling 5 pattern pieces you know you need to add 1 inch to each pattern piece. BUT you need to SPLIT this in half to add ½ inch to each side of the pattern piece.
As people get wider, they don’t necessarily get taller, however some length may be necessary to add to the pattern as well. Length to the bodice front may help fit over a full bust. Length to a skirt front may help cover a full tummy.
Most grid patterns do not have seam allowance added. You must remember to add seam allowance to your patterns. I normally use a ½ inch seam allowance. (It’s the width of my sewing machine presser foot, which makes sewing up easier. – When my old sewing machine had a 1cm width presser foot; I preferred 1 cm seam allowances.) If you’re still concerned about fitting, however, you may prefer to add 1 inch seam allowances to your next muslin “mock-up” in order to have lots of room for fitting.
Here is another method of sizing up. This is from “The Magic Garment, Principals of Costume Design” by Rebecca Cunningham.
{Edited by AllSeeingRSA in order to thumbnail the image; click on the image for the full view}
Different people have different ways to do this. A lot of people swear by the overhead projector system and size up the patterns to their own size and draw it on a sheet of paper taped to a wall with the overhead projector.
I find I prefer a more freehand format and I purchase one inch or one centimeter marked sheets at the fabric store for this specific task. Burda makes pattern paper with grid measurements, but other companies do too. Quilters use this stuff.
I just lay out the paper and counting squares on the graphed pattern sketch the shapes onto my grid paper. Some patterns use the metric scale and some use the imperial scale. I find it easiest to use the correctly corresponding paper, but in a pinch 1 inch = 2.5 cm.
Suzi Clarke had written extensive instructions for this on the Sense and Sensibility board. You can find the info here:
forums.sensibility.com/viewthread.php?tid=4051
Grading the original pattern to your size can be a bit trickier:
I generally make a quick muslin in the size of the original pattern just to see what it turns out to be. In the case of scaled to original garments these can sometimes be quite tiny. The Hunnisett “Period Costume for Stage and Screen” are all “size 12” fitting a body of approx 36 bust, 26 waist 38 hip. I can tell you now these are NOT my own measurements but sometimes her patterns fit my size 10 (ready-to-wear) shape.
Essentially you need to determine from your muslin of the original pattern how many additional inches need to be added to the pattern in order for it to fit you.
So, if you need 5 additional inches and the bodice piece is made up of a centre back, two side pieces and two front pieces (left and right) totaling 5 pattern pieces you know you need to add 1 inch to each pattern piece. BUT you need to SPLIT this in half to add ½ inch to each side of the pattern piece.
As people get wider, they don’t necessarily get taller, however some length may be necessary to add to the pattern as well. Length to the bodice front may help fit over a full bust. Length to a skirt front may help cover a full tummy.
Most grid patterns do not have seam allowance added. You must remember to add seam allowance to your patterns. I normally use a ½ inch seam allowance. (It’s the width of my sewing machine presser foot, which makes sewing up easier. – When my old sewing machine had a 1cm width presser foot; I preferred 1 cm seam allowances.) If you’re still concerned about fitting, however, you may prefer to add 1 inch seam allowances to your next muslin “mock-up” in order to have lots of room for fitting.
Here is another method of sizing up. This is from “The Magic Garment, Principals of Costume Design” by Rebecca Cunningham.
{Edited by AllSeeingRSA in order to thumbnail the image; click on the image for the full view}
