Weight of wool

[Eleanor]

My dear and eminently knowledgeable friends,

I am in the research phase of making a naval uniform for my husband. Having never seen one in person, I am curious as to what weight of wool to use. Most on-line wool outlets rate their wool as "light weight," "suiting weight," and "tropical weight," among others. One site (http://www.militaryheritage.com/wool.htm) sells wool for uniforms that is 24oz. What I'm wondering is: how does that relate to the above weights?

Also a consideration is the weather in the Midwest. Most specifically the hot summers. Using a tropical weight wool might keep him cooler, but if it doesn't look good, or drape right, then I don't want to use it.

I know there are a few gentlemen officers here, and those who sew for them. May I ask what you have used; if you have any tips or suggestions; or things to avoid?

My sincere thanks,

~Barbara

[missmardi]

Dear Lady Barbara,

The 24 oz Melton Wool found on Military Heritage, is by far the preferred wool for uniforms. It is heavier than the other weights you listed. It is woven tightly, leaving cut edges that won't fray. It is warmer than a tropical weight wool, so the question becomes one of how accurate you are trying to be. If you use a lighter wool, you will have to change construction methods to finish edges that would typically have been left unfinished.

Miss Marid

[Eleanor]

My thanks, Miss Marid.

I don't think I would use the tropical weight wool in any case. I don't think it would look right at all. I was just wondering for comparison what the ounces/yard would be for each of those weights.

The sites that list things in "light weight, medium weight," etc., don't tell you ounces/yard. This time of year, it's almost impossible to find wool in the local fabric stores to compare first hand.

I like authenticity, though I will make small compromises for comfort.

Likely, my best option is to see if I can get sample swatches. I just hate waiting. ;-)

With regards,
~Barbara

[Goblin, esq.]

As I have been puzzling over weights of wool fabric recently, I don't know the answer, but I can make some guesses.

"tropical weight" wool might be as light as 7-8 oz.
"suiting weight" wool is probably anywhere between 10-18oz.

I think 18 oz. wool is about as heavy as wool suiting is made in these days of central heating.

However, for a given weight, the tightness of the weave also contributes to how hot it will wear.

For the record, I have yet to make anything with wool heavy enough to be in period (and not need the edges finished).

(Actually, I take that back; my overcoat is made of coat-weight wool, with unfinished edges.)

[Eleanor]

I thank you, Goblin! This is just the sort of information I needed.

I have been admiring your work in the making of your own captain's uniform. My husband was inspired too, and given a little much-needed encouragement, as he has noted that there are not as many men involved in the recreation of this era.

With regards,
~Barbara

[Goblin, esq.]

Apr 6, 2010 15:37:57 GMT -5 Eleanor said:

I thank you, Goblin! This is just the sort of information I needed.

I have been admiring your work in the making of your own captain's uniform. My husband was inspired too, and given a little much-needed encouragement, as he has noted that there are not as many men involved in the recreation of this era.

Why, thank you madam.

If you have any questions on how I made my uniform, or about Royal Navy uniforms in general, please ask; I will answer them to the best of my knowledge.