Corset patterns, Mantua Maker vs. Past Patterns

[cosmoblue]

What do you think about corsets patterns available? Particularly The Mantua Maker's 1800-1820 Corset Pattern or the Past Patterns' 1820s-1840s Corded Stays Pattern. Have you tried either one or both? How complicated are they? How well do they fit? Which offers the best shape? Do you have pictures to share?

[mantua maker]


[past patterns]

[Mme de Beaufort]

I will post an image of my corset as soon as I can (it's in the wash). I actually used the S&S pattern for a stay to start it, and just extended each piece of the pattern down, inserting gussets around the hips, and extra boning in the back.

[cosmoblue]

I am beginning to lean towards the Mantua Maker stays mostly because Katherine used it here koshka-the-cat.com/regency_undergarments.html I think it looks fantastic. I am also nervous about taking on cording along with everything else I want to do for my first outfit.

[cosmoblue]

I found this review here: www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/MantuaMaker.htm

#1810-3 - Regency Corset 1800-1820

Katherine Caron-Greig - Recommended
The corset was very simple to make. I had read that the pattern ran small, so I added about 2" to each center back piece. This worked fine since the front piece fit nicely. It's amazing how much better a Regency dress looks with the corset (and the smooth line it gives) underneath. I would recommend using a slightly flexible busk though, mine is very stiff and I can't lace the corset tightly enough when it's in, which causes the corset to ride up which is rather uncomfortable. The corset still works without the busk though, and is extremely comfortable. Pictured on the left.


Monique Motyl - Recommended
It is a good corset pattern but, it is tricky. You must make a muslin first because you'll probably need to make adjustments in the gussets. The Regency corset is very long; if you have large hips, you'll want to add hip gussets at each side. Regency corsets were quilted but, there are no instructions for quilting. This is a significant omission. A friend did the research for me in books and on the Internet to find examples. She found a few and we used those to created the quilted panels. It is an extremely comfortable corset. If you're a large size and have felt the Regency line is not flattering to you, this corset will change your mind. In creating the proper silhouette and shaping the body, it is extremely flattering. Pictured on the right.

Alessandra Kelley - Recommended with a caveat.
This is a useful pattern. The instructions are clear, well-illustrated, and good-humored. The pattern pieces fit together perfectly. Unfortunately, the pattern seems to run small. Size 10, which is supposed to fit a 37" bust with 1" to 4" of spring (i.e. the lacing gap) at the back, produces a garment only 29" wide at the bust line. It works, but one a tad larger might have been an improvement. Apart from that this is a very user-friendly pattern.

[cosmoblue]

I also found this here: www.gbacg.org/GreatPatternReview/PastPatterns.htm

#001 - 1820s-1840s Corded Stays

Allison Rolls - Recommended
This corset takes a long time to make and is an enormous amount of work. I had to recut the gores several times. The instructions are clear and very well written. I was never frustrated by the instructions. I'm going to make it again and use coutil next time. The cording was really fun. I've never done it before. Getting the cord through the channels was a bit tricky and time-consuming. I used a tapestry needle; it worked well for the task. The difficulty level is about Medium; an Intermediate level sewer will be fine with this pattern. Pictured at right.

Sue Armstrong - Highly Recommended
This pattern is wonderful. I had no problems. I followed the directions to create the gussets and they turned out great. I was stumped by the busk though. I ordered the board and didn't realize I would have to complete it! Needless to say, I was in a hurry and needed the corset right away. I went to a hardware store and bought a scrap piece of Plexiglas slightly larger than the size I needed. At the store, I had it cut to the correct size and width. I was shown how to round the edges. I sanded the edges and it fit perfectly into the stay. The best part was that, after I wore the corset, the Plexiglas had "bend" as if it was a real busk. It really worked in a pinch.

Janet Canning - Recommended
What can I say about Past Patterns corset patterns? I do very well with their patterns. The first soft corset I made some ten years ago was worn out completely. This pattern is very similar, however it has gussets and a busk insert. I attempted the corset that was the bridal version, without the extra layer and embroidery, I simply don't have the hand control to do embroidery. I found there was a lot of historical data, and found that looking at the flat out diagram illustration of the boning placement better outlined it than the instructions. Now, I don't know if this happened because there was so much historical data and the instructions printed on a big sheet. When this happens, I sometimes have to photocopy and keep separate the instructions so I can check them off. I did not like the way that the back closure was done. In order to make the single piece of fabric, which is a non-curve cut corset, fit the back. You must make 3 triangle cuts to clip for the curve and since that makes it so you must try to no fray it Fray Check) and since that is a stress point for lacing, it may need to be re-enforced quite a bit (i.e. do some button hole stitching). I found this made the otherwise pretty straight forward pattern get complicated. This method also makes it difficult to make the runners for the 2nd set of back stays that a corset should have for lacing. I did figure out a way to make a facing and turn it to the inside to make this part better, but at this point, it is no longer period corded, I have modernized the stays.

If you follow the period construction and the corded stay, you may be able to find a way to make the back work better. I find that when lacing, you have got to have at least two ridged stays in the back. I would not recommend this pattern unless you want to redesign it. I think that either Pattern #708, an 1840's - 1880's Corset or Pattern #705, the Early-to Mid-Nineteenth Century Stays would be better choices to get the about the same shape.

[cosmoblue]

Looks like i've got quite a bit of work ahead of me if I am going to do this. I want to see more picture of anyone that has done a corset. I need inspiration and motivation.

[cosmoblue]

I found a site that uses the pattern from Period Costume for Stage & Screen 1800-1909 She likes it a lot better than the Manuta Makers' Pattern. I think it looks pretty great. It also talks a bit about busks. www.historicallydressed.com/historic/P-05-08.html

[dawnluckham]

I'm going to add a third possibility to the long Regency stays options. Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen, 1800-1909" has a wonderful Regency period corset pattern. It's of course a grid pattern and needs to be sized up, but it makes a positively beautiful silhouette.

I’ve only made one, so far from this pattern. As I was making it I was trying to stick as close to her descriptions of the original garment she took the pattern from. (The book offers costumer’s tricks to “update” the construction process for theatre. You can choose to use them or not, as you wish.) The original stays were corded.

Having made this pair, there are two things I would change on my second go at this pattern. I corded the centre back between the eyelets. In the future, I think I would use metal boning instead, as the cording does not support the lacing in the eyelets and the lacing buckles. I also spiral laced, as was the common practice in period. This presents a problem for me when dressing, as I NEED someone else to lace me up. There are no ifs, ands, or buts about it – spiral lacing is not a do-it-yourself project. So I think I would change my lacing to a more Victorian style of lacing with “bunny ears” pulls at the waist so I could dress without assistance.

Just as an addendum, there are short stays patterns out there too. Sense and Sensibility offers a short stay pattern. Betsy Bashore has worked out a pattern for the Kyoto stays, which can be found on line in grid pattern form. And I believe Sandra Altman of Past Patterns is working on a second pattern for short stays taken from The Connecticut Historical Society collection. This is to come out soon, I hear.

Here are photos of my stays made with the Hunnisett pattern:

[cosmoblue]

dawnluckham- Wow! Your Stays are beautiful. I appreciate your comments and suggestions. I actually have a photo copy of that pattern but I am a bit of a chicken about trying it since I haven't made a period corset before and it doesn't have step by step instructions. Seriously they are amazing though.

[Mme de Beaufort]

OMG the cording. :::drool of envy::

[dawnluckham]

Thank you ladies. The pattern in the book actually does have instructions. Several pages in fact. If you haven't seen it before maybe you can obtain the book from your local library?

I'll admit to having made several different types of corsets before this one, but they were different eras. This knowledge was of course helpful, but mostly it just gave me the confidence to go ahead. The book really does tell you what to do. This was my first Regency era set of long stays.

[cosmoblue]

Well, I have received my pattern from the Mantua Maker. I will let everyone know how I make my way through it. Whenever I do get started.

[cosmoblue]

Steph - Do you think that you could move this thread to the corsets and stays section? I think that the mantua maker pattern and the Past Patterns should have their own threads in the review section. That way the review section can be just reviews on single patterns so a person can just look up the pattern that they are considering without having to wade through my comparison thread.

[cosmoblue]

dawnluckham said:

Here are photos of my stays made with the Hunnisett pattern:

Dawn - Just to let you know, I have been checking this post every 30 minutes to compare my stays to yours to see if I am doing it right. It is quite helpful.

[Mme de Beaufort]

Cosmo, are you doing the cording? O M G

[cosmoblue]

admin said:

Cosmo, are you doing the cording? O M G

No, Sorry. Not this time. I am just checking to compare fit. I know that I do not have time to cord anything in a month. I haven't even started my gown pattern yet. I am still doing undergarment mock ups.

[iamdiverted]

You started! YAY! I can't wait to see hwat you have done!!!!

[dawnluckham]

Sorry I wasn’t able to get back to you on this one earlier, Cosmo. I’m glad the pictures so far have been a help.

I don’t have a photo of the inside of the one layer stays as these were sold long ago, but I’ve got a close up of the gusset and the embroidery on the outside.



These are the corded stays and they’re two layers with a single layer gusset. The gusset is sewn into the outside just as Steph showed you. Then I hand finish the bottom and cover it with a satin stitch.

Then I turn the seam allowance on the lining inside and hand stitch it in place, finishing the bottom the same way as the outside.

Outside:



Inside:

[Mme de Beaufort]

dawnluckham said:

Sorry I wasn’t able to get back to you on this one earlier, Cosmo. I’m glad the pictures so far have been a help.

I don’t have a photo of the inside of the one layer stays as these were sold long ago, but I’ve got a close up of the gusset and the embroidery on the outside.

OMG Dawn, that embroidery is SUCH a beautiful detail! I love love love the embroidery.... And everything is so tidy. ::glances at her messy work::

[cosmoblue]

Thanks, Dawn, That is really great.