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Post by cosmoblue on May 13, 2008 12:54:41 GMT -5
I just moved this thread so that whenever someone gets around to making up this pattern they can put the review in the review section and we all can go on discussing it here. Less confusion for anyone who is looking for a review since there isn't really one here.
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Post by esther on Feb 8, 2011 11:19:57 GMT -5
Has anyone tried this pattern yet? If so, I'd love to hear your thoughts on difficulty and period accuracy. I have a copy and I'm debating if it is worth trying.
My husband is in need of a coat and I don't know if I should just hire someone to make one (I have yet to find a good maker of men's coats and I'm hesistant to use someone far away that can't fit the coat in person) or try to make one myself (everyone says that there are no really good mens coat patterns and I have simple sewing skills. I can make petticoats, cloaks and reticules, but I've never really fitted clothes or modified patterns before).
If anyone has any other thoughts/suggestions, please share!
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Post by dawnluckham on Feb 8, 2011 18:59:05 GMT -5
Esther, I think this has been talked about some more in other threads, but the way it’s all divvied up confuses me. Steph used this pattern to make her husband a coat and I have a memory of the discussion continuing.
Personally, I can’t suggest this pattern. I own it and there are a lot of difficult areas. I do remember Steph had nice results. I have a friend who is an expert seamstress/tailor and she’s forced it to work – but she has only used this pattern once and won’t use it again.
I’d really recommend the military coats from Past Patterns as a starting point – maybe working with graphed patterns from books like “The Cut of Men’s Clothes” by Norah Waugh or “Fitting and Proper” by Sharon Ann Burnston (p.59) to figure out civilian style tails. (Both books are available in the library.) You’ll find the Past Patterns instructions very thorough and the history packet precise (perhaps more military than you’re interested in). The main reason I suggest this, however, is the cut of the body of the coat is perfect. It’s exactly right. For the effort involved, save yourself the headache.
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Post by Post_Captain_Joe on Jul 2, 2011 1:51:18 GMT -5
I must take exception to this comment. Unless I am misreading your post, you have not yet attempted to use this pattern to produce a tailcoat of this era. Then you go onto "Deputize" your friend, who is on the laudable, and perhaps quixotic goal of finding the "perfect" pattern for something that no pattern can ever be "perfect" since each and every gentleman's tailor would have slightly different methods of crafting a jacket. Did your friend attempt to utilize this pattern to create a coat, or did she just study it before tossing it on her "rejected" pile? I would please urge you to reserve your judgment, until such time as you have the opportunity to either create a garment utilizing this pattern, or to observe a garment created with it. Your Obd't Servant, Joseph Harney Captain Sir Thomas Cappel HMS Phoebe Not necessarily, Pam. The Reconstructing History coat is a new pattern and hasn’t been out long enough to see several examples yet. It is designed to be made in SILK as opposed to wool and the construction information is for a silk garment. If you’re making a wool coat, you’re going to have to come up with your own construction method to be completely accurate as the methods differ a fair amount. I don’t specialize in men’s garments, but I do have a costuming friend that has been seeking the “ideal” men’s coat pattern for a very long time and has (after careful perusal of the pattern) included the Reconstructing History pattern in her ‘rejected’ lot. So far the best two patterns out there are the Past Patterns military coats for this period, which then need modification to redesign them into civilian coats. So far, the specific problem with the men’s coats patterns out there is the cut of the back and the way the sleeve fits into the armscye. Most of the coat patterns my friend and I have looked at have a modern style back cut, which really takes away from the beauty of so many period men’s coats. |
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Post by dawnluckham on Jul 2, 2011 9:12:10 GMT -5
My good sir, how surprising to see a comment dredged up from more than three years ago!
And, I must add, how surprising that you responded with such vitriol. Wow!
Three years after that post I cannot say I would in any good conscience, recommend that pattern. I know a good many people who have attempted to work with it, as well as trying to give it an honest attempt myself since that post was written. I'm completely willing to admit that individual experiences and expectations vary.
Edit to add:
In defence of my friend mentioned in the 3-year-old post: She is one of the finest tailors of men’s period clothing out there.
As tone is sometimes difficult to ascertain in written communication, I will state for you that there is no hint of sarcasm or ire in my words. I am speaking with interest and honesty in your good opinion:
If you have glowing reports to share about this pattern, I’m positive that everyone here who sews men’s clothing for the Regency era will be most eager to hear of your positive experiences.
Please share specifics of what you like about this pattern. We’d love to hear details of how the pattern pieces fit together, modifications you might have made, good reviews on the clarity of the written instructions and the helpfulness of illustrations are all particulars people are eager to hear about. Even better yet: A construction diary of work with this pattern would be extremely well received.
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Post by Mme de Beaufort on Jul 3, 2011 22:58:29 GMT -5
Even better yet: A construction diary of work with this pattern would be extremely well received. Construction diaries in general are always well-received around here. They are sometimes even stolen by me to be reposted on the ORS blog.  |
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Post by Post_Captain_Joe on Jul 5, 2011 3:38:00 GMT -5
Ah, my dear... the wonders of the internet!
I apologize if I offended, but I hadn't actually realized that your original post was 3 years old at the time. The topic was near the top of the threads, and I read back through it.
I own the pattern myself, but I have not yet attempted to utilize it to construct a jacket. I ended up using Pegee's of Williambsurg instead for my Naval Frock Coat, as I wanted to olders style coat with the smooth lapel lines.
However, as someone who is both male and come lately to sewing, I've found Kass's patterns to be in general extremely "logical" to my mind when reading and utilizing them.
Though quite often associates of mine who are used to using "modern" patterns such as McCalls, Simplicity and the like do report that they have trouble with the patterns, because things don't go together like they are "suppose" to. But since I'm a sewing Tabula Rasa, I skipped right over that bit.
I've used her Victorian Trouser pattern to great success*, as well as her renaissance patterns as well. I'm not sure when I'll get around to making a civilian coat, as my lists of "wants" project seems to be evergrowing, but when I do get around to utilizing the pattern, I will most definately post my results.
Your Obd't Servant
Joseph Harney
Captain Sir Thomas Cappel
HMS Phoebe
*In my very limited experience, all patterns require a certain amount of adjustment, due to the simple nature of the fact that the human body is so wide and variable. Therefore, I don't personally judge a pattern on it's capability to produce an "Off the Rack" garment. I'm much more concerned about it being an effective starting point with the minimal amount of adjustments needed.
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Where so many hours have been spent in convincing myself that I am right, is there not some reason to fear I may be wrong? ~ Jane Austen