Stovepipe Bonnet Pattern at last

[Mme de Beaufort]

Because I drafted a pattern for Hats by Leko and figured, what the hey? I can sell them too, darnit. So I drafted the pattern, printed a few copies to start with, and created a set of instructions. Here it is:

www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=14175944

Yes, they cost money.... a girl's gotta do what a girl's gotta do.

It's based on my standard stovepipe bonnet, plus I added a modified 'high-angle' bonnet where the stovepipe is shorter and angled more vertically on the head. No need for straw braiding or any such thing; it's a simple buckram frame.

I tested both patterns (one is already a bonnet commission for an etsy sale) and the other I did in posterboard. They turned out quite decently.

This is the bonnet I made using the standard stovepipe pattern:

[Val]

I don't think that's a bad price at all. I just paid $15 for a Lynn McMasters bonnet pattern.
Maybe next month when I pay off my credit card from my last two trips, I just might buy one.

[tess]

Oh, I love this one even more than the blue one!! The feathers and the ruching and the color work wonderfully together!

I've bought buckram and milliner's wire, so I'll have to look up your pattern now

[lauren]

I love the bonnets you make, Steph. I might have to get your pattern when my "allowance" is replenished :-)

[dawnluckham]

Congratulations, Steph! The bonnet you've shown in the photos is beautiful!

[amandamoose]

Do you still have the pattern for the hats you made the video? I wanted to make my mother a hat to wear to functions (she's a red hat lady ) Your bonnets are so lovely and from your video (with lively chatter in the comment section) looks relatively easy to put together.
I would so appreciate the pattern or where to find it. I looked but couldn't find the one you said you used so, maybe I"m blind but any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Mme de Beaufort]

I still have it, i haven't been able to do a reprint these last few weeks, I've gotten a few requests so a reprint is due. I'll let you know when I have a new batch up on etsy.

[amandamoose]

Great thanks!!

[Mme de Beaufort]

I added a new batch of patterns on my etsy shop. FYI

[amandamoose]

YEA!!!! *bows down to the all seeing RSA* bow bow bow *backing out of virtual room and sprinting to etsy shop

[amandamoose]

Hee hee purchased!!! I'm so excited XD squeeeeee!!!

[amandamoose]

Ok got my fixin's now I am wondering if I can iron the buckram cause it's all bent...know what I mean? I'm pressing it under heavy books right now, but if i can iron it I'd sure like to get to makin' these hats I"m so excited!!!

[lastbloom]

If your library has a copy, the book "From the Neck Up" has so much information about hatmaking (materials, construction techniques) -- it was very popular at the design school where I used to work! I think it would make a great companion to Steph's pattern.

www.hatbook.com/

[dawnluckham]

Yes, you can iron your buckram. Steaming it will help you perfect your bonnet shape as you progress in construction.

If you consider "From the Neck Up" make sure you see a copy before you purchase. I bought my copy based on glowing reports and was extremely disappointed. It isn’t a source I turn to when looking for bonnet making info. I think this might be a “love it or hate it” kind of thing.

[lastbloom]

Dawn, I'd love to hear what sources you do use! The more references the better

[dawnluckham]

When I first decided I wanted to experiment with millinery I purchased patterns and began to gather period appropriate images. I poured over fashion plates and images of extent caps, bonnets and hats.

Patterns (and supplies) I purchased were from
Kannik’s Korners www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen.htm
Miller’s Millinery bonnets.com/
and Lynn McMaster’s www.lynnmcmasters.com/
All of these patterns have TONS of construction information and details in them.

I bought further supplies from
Hats by Leko www.hatsupply.com/VictorianPatternsKits.htm
And Judith M www.judithm.com/
And Farthingales www.farthingales.on.ca/home.htm

I admired work by talented milliners – Pam Robles of Mrs. Parker’s Millinery should be added to the above list: www.victorianbonnets.com/

I purchased (in addition to “the disappointing book” )

Snowshill book “Hats and Bonnets” by Althea Mackenzie www.wmboothdraper.com/Books/books_accessories.htm and

“Vintage Hats and Bonnets” by Susan Langley www.bookapex.com/Vintage-Hats-Bonnets-1770-1970-Identification-Values-1574320289.htm (Which is a real “eye candy” kind of book).

I also started looking in some of my vintage sewing books (too many to list here) for millinery techniques. You’ll find oodles of information in books from 1900 through to the 1950’s in old sewing books. I loved the info I found from 1900-1930.

I took a two day workshop at Judith M where I learned more in two days than I had with all my previous research. It was amazing! Just to clarify: I had to travel some distance to participate in this workshop. I had hotel expenses. It was SO worth it!

I also (more recently) took a two day workshop with Lydia Fast. Again – distance and hotel – but wonderful things were learned!

Ruth Mills is another milliner I have heard amazing things about. One of her workshops is on my wish-list.

Just some of my bonnets:











Edited to make thumbnail size images.

[dawnluckham]

Forgot to mention, I also have tried to learn ribbon work and how to create flowers from ribbon so my bonnets will have period appropriate trim.

Books and kits have been purchased and workshops taken from Helen Gibb (gorgeous, gorgeous things!) and Camela Nitschke.

[amandamoose]

Not sure this first one is going to work out when I was sewing the top on the shape turned out all wrong and I had to trim it... I hope it still work though buckram isn't too expensive. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the book Dawn. I don't think I'll purchase any books on this subject till I makes this hat and see if it's something I want to go more into. The hat (or hats) I'm making aren't period correct they are just in that style (they are for my mother who is a Red Hat Lady)
At this point I'm enjoying making it but if it turns out looking terrible lol I may give up, or look for a bonnet class nearby or something

[amandamoose]

Your bonnets are beautiful by the way! Absolutely gorgeous

[dawnluckham]

Thank you.

You know what the wonderful thing about hat making is? There’s really no “wrong” when you’re working on shapes. There are parameters, but really, hats look great with wonky creative shapes. There are no “exacts”. Even when you’re working within a timeline and you want a bonnet from a specific decade, there are some features you will want to include and maybe some features that need to be discarded because they’re “dated” or “futuristic” but bonnets are individuals. They are always “one of a kind”. Even when you try to make two exactly the same, they don’t come out the same. They have personalities of their own.

I’m sure your bonnet will turn out beautifully. Please share it with us when you’re done!